Do you want to change the interior of your apartment? The best solution would be to buy furniture. Create a comfortable place to sleep with a nice new bed.

Before you start assembling a single bed, you should choose a spacious place and place all the components separately from each other. Become familiar with the name and role of each item in the box. This way you can immediately find the part you need. Cover the surface with packing cardboard to avoid damage and contamination of the floor.

During the assembly process, you do not need to screw the screws into the parts too much. In case of an error, it will be difficult to dismantle the structure. We recommend that you first assemble the fragile frame and only then, provided that it is completely visually similar to the instructions, begin tightening all the fasteners.

Before starting work, you should cover the sides and other parts with a special plastic tape, if provided in the package. In some models, it is already attached to the edges of each element, which greatly simplifies the work.

Instructions for assembling single beds

Many people prefer to install everything themselves without the help of a specialist. This approach allows you to save a considerable amount of money. Assembling a single bed is a fairly simple process, because any model is similar in the structure of the frame and supporting elements.

To get started you will need a number of standard tools:

• Screwdriver;
• Screwdriver Set;
• Spanners.

Each product comes with a factory manual for assembly and operation. When performing any action, follow the official instructions for assembling a single bed. The standard model of such a product is 2 meters in length and 90 centimeters in width.

First, lay out the parts. Then you should install the fittings for the footboard and headboard. Most beds come with a ready-made frame to which you need to attach a base and crossbar.
The final step is to install the headboards and install the mattress. If there are additional storage boxes, assemble them separately and install the resulting result inside the frame.

Single bed assembly diagram

The frame of each bed has an identical design, which does not depend on the shape of the supporting elements or the presence of additional mechanisms. It is quite easy to install the parts if you have a good diagram for assembling a single bed in front of your eyes.

Let's take a closer look at the entire process of installing bedroom furniture described above. The bed legs must be assembled separately. This is done at the initial stage. We advise you to immediately separate the elements for supporting the left and right sides so as not to get confused.

In the configuration, find euroscrews (another name for them is confirmats). In each of them, small holes should be made with a drill: diameter - 5-8 millimeters, depth - 60 millimeters maximum. To screw in the Euroscrews, you will need a screwdriver with a hexagonal rod-shaped bit. All legs must be attached to each other with confirmations.

Once the installation of the frame is complete, all that remains is to attach all the side elements of the bed frame. Their installation is carried out using Euroscrews, which are screwed into the side boards, and self-tapping screws, screwed into the support legs of the bed.

If you want to increase the strength of the structure, we recommend purchasing additional bolts for tightening the furniture structure. They connect the support well with the sidewalls, preventing wear of the parts.

A single bed with a standard frame can always be independently adjusted according to the lift level. To do this, make small cuts on the support of the lower part, which can later be tightened to the desired level.

We make a double bed with a lift and two compartments for things (1400x2000) ourselves

We make a double bed with a lift and two compartments for things (1400x2000) ourselves.

I realized that I no longer have the strength to sleep on a fold-out sofa corner. The sofa is old (8 years!!!), the filling is wrinkled in places, the back feels hard unevenness and hurts in the morning.

To begin with, my wife and I decided to drive around and look at shops and fairs for a bed + orthopedic mattress. We decided on the size of the sleeping area - 1400 x 2000. This is also suitable for the subsequent layout of the room.

The bedroom set (bed, wardrobe, bedside tables, etc.) is not suitable for us, because... small bedroom - 9m2. All that remains is just a bed.

The prices were different - from 6500 rubles. (chipboard + plywood) up to 50,000 and above.

I liked something similar:

just without the headboard. ( Soft sides without sharp corners+ simplicity... in short, I liked it!)

The price of such a bed (without a lifting mechanism) is about 15,000 rubles. You can put a lift in the bed you like (more + 12000). Total - 27,000 rubles.

A lifting mechanism was needed because... The apartment is small and the presence of additional compartments for different things is a resolved issue.

I decided to make the bed myself (no experience, but I know how to work with tools).

An orthopedic base was found for 4,500 rubles.

Transformation system - elevator: 1200 rub.

I sketched out a sketch and thought about how everything would be arranged. I roughly calculated the lumber and went in search of boards for the sides and legs. ( Important: There are no solid boards of the required size. You need to buy a tongue and groove board (window sill or something similar). Not knowing this, I bought a floorboard with veneer for gluing (thickness - 35 mm, width - 150 mm) at the rate of three boards per side. For the legs I took 100 x 100 mm timber. Upon purchase, all boards and beams were cut to size.

At home I picked up and glued (PVA-based carpentry glue) three boards each: Long side - 2010 mm, short side - 1420+35+35=1490 mm. (I first estimated the gap with which the gas lift operates - about 10 mm from the lifting bar to the wall of the bed to which the gas lift is attached. Hence 1420 mm). 35mm - board thickness.

The disadvantage of the floorboard is that it has a slight curvature - a “propeller” (take the window sill - it is straight). That’s why I spent a long time choosing and adjusting which boards would fit in what way.

As a result, I picked up and glued 4 boards. Board size: L1=L2=2010mm, L3=L4=1490mm.

Because the orthopedic base rests on 4 corners and a longitudinal plane in the middle, I glued another board that will serve as a support for the base. L5=2010mm

Leg size: L1=L2=L3=L4=450mm. The timber was damp and therefore cracked slightly while it was drying. But this did not affect the process and quality. It is important to let the wood dry. I made the bed slowly, so the legs had time to dry.

The sides of the bed needed to be rounded. This was done in two steps: 1 - with an electric jigsaw at an angle of 45°; 2 - belt sander (by eye).

Next, all sides of the bed were assembled using corners and screws. The difficulty was that the three boards turned out to be almost straight, and one of the sides (it was supposed to be placed with this side towards the wall) was a “propeller”. Therefore, the “straight” sides were attached first:

Coming to the 4th corner, we have this curvature:

The board was forced to fit and fastened with a long self-tapping screw into the end of the board:

Things are not going well at the bottom of this corner either:

Due to the fact that the bottom of the board was pulled to the side due to the “propeller”, a wedge was placed. From the outside, I simply cut off the protruding board. I rounded the corners using the same technology: (the holes for attaching the legs are visible)

Since there are metal corners in the corners inside the base of the bed, there was a need for additional processing of the legs (grooves with a belt sander):

The holes for attaching the legs were measured and drilled. The height of the legs is the same as the width of the sides. Shift of legs downwards by 60mm.

Trial installation of legs:

All screws are in place: (There is room on top for an orthopedic base + a side to stabilize the mattress)

Pieces of linoleum were glued to the ends of the legs (top and bottom). From below so as not to scratch the floor, and from above for an orthopedic base:

After gluing the overlays, I glued and wrapped the legs with upholstery material, and secured the edges with a stapler. Holes for mounting screws are cut:

I set up the bed and figured out how the orthopedic base would fit:

This is approximately how it will open on elevators. There is no support board yet under the middle of the base. It moves down like the legs - by 60 mm.

Let's start tightening the sides of the bed. First, foam rubber S-10mm:

This is the underside of the side of the bed. The foam comes from the edge of the board, because... There will be slats inside the base to support the plywood base of the drawers. The foam rubber is glued to the sides.

This is one of the corners. The foam rubber is turned, cut and nailed with a stapler.

The foam rubber is nailed on top with an overlap of approximately 3-4 mm.

When joining the foam rubber, an insert was used locally and by eye (it will not be noticeable):

Next comes the leatherette upholstery. No glue, just smoothing by hand. The leather substitute was purchased to be of high quality. It is soft to the touch and, as it turned out, quite wear-resistant.

This is how the side around the leg was finished. Bottom view: (This is exactly that leg, in a crooked corner. This thickening is the wooden insert).

The leatherette was lined at the bottom with a slouch, without turning up. The width of the overlap is equal to the width of the slats that will hold the plywood bottom. At the top it was lined with a collar for beauty. I haven’t figured out how to start the corners yet...

The corners were brought in and secured. If there was leather, maybe it would be stretched beautifully with small folds.

This is what it looks like from the outside:

I turned all the corners. It turned out soft and rounded. At this stage I glued a strip of linoleum onto the support board.

I covered the ugly corners of the middle board with the remains of leatherette:

I check the tight fit of all four legs and the support board to the orthopedic base. ( Note: The middle board is difficult to fit in one go. Do not rush to screw all the screws into the corners, screw 2-4 at a time and check the fit of the base).

The next stage is slats for the plywood bottom. I screwed slats with a section of 25x40 along the entire internal perimeter. Drill large holes in the rail for self-tapping screws.

Son Andrey helps. He lubricates the screws in soap, places them in the batten and hits them with a hammer so that the screw fits into the board. And I just twist:

Almost done…

The entire perimeter from the inside is edged with a strip.

Stepping back by eye, I installed the gas lifts on the base:

The bolt closest to the edge is between the 1st and 2nd lamellas of the base ( Note: It's far away, because... when opening, the base rested against the legs and did not rise).

Not working option:

I had to move the gas lifts themselves as close to the legs as possible. Corrected, working version.

We install gas shock absorbers ourselves.

Then I bought S=6mm plywood, sanded on one side. I cut it in place and placed it on top of the slats. And even partially filled the boxes. Seats - carriage.

Since the resulting roller on top of the side slightly overlaps the orthopedic base, when lowered the base holds and does not fly up.

Gas shock absorbers are selected depending on the weight of the orthopedic base + mattress. My gas shock absorbers are rated for 80 kg.

We ordered a mattress and it finally arrived. Moisture-resistant cover on top:

The mattress lies high and the gap between the mattress and the base is visible.

CONCLUSION: It is necessary to move the legs and the middle support board not by 60 mm, but by 90 mm. This will allow the mattress to fit more tightly into the base.

We raise the bed. There is no need to hold it - everything is balanced. It rises up on its own.

When raised, the mattress moves slightly downwards under its own weight.

The displacement of the mattress can be eliminated by installing a limiter to the orthopedic base:

All. The bed is ready. Estimated cost of materials (without mattress): 9 - 10 thousand rubles. We bought an expensive mattress because of back problems.

The bed for adults determines the appearance of the bedroom interior. And if it is in full view of everyone in a studio or budget apartment, then together with the wardrobe and table it forms a triumvirate, from which the entire design of the home dances. This circumstance influences production and trade markups: for family double beds, they are not exactly ugly, but they could be cheaper. Hence the understandable interest of home craftsmen in homemade beds: it’s not a TV, and it’s not a car. And not even a closet or a chandelier.

Craftsmen make beds of various types and designs. Examples in Fig. cover only the core of amateur bed construction, which still has many bends, side jets and twists. We will stay more in the mainstream.

Making a bed with your own hands is both simple and difficult. Simply because there is nothing technologically complicated about it; A very good bed can be made with your own hands outside of a carpentry workshop at home, right in your apartment. It’s difficult because the bed is one of the most loaded pieces of furniture and perhaps the only one designed for regular (or irregular, depending on who you care) significant alternating loads. The ratios of their values ​​to the load-bearing capacity of parts of acceptable sizes are close to those in industrial equipment or military equipment, but it is not suitable to construct an everyday thing like the bed of a metal-cutting machine or a gun carriage. In order to meet the specified requirements with a minimum of available material, labor and money, it is necessary to make full use of the mechanics of wooden structures and related disciplines. This article is intended to give an initial understanding of the structure of the bed, its main parts and their work in the structure. Illustrative materials can be used both directly and as a basis for your own developments.

From the anecdotal history of beds

The famous Soviet submarine captain Alexander Marinesko once started an affair with a very temperamental Swede from... mmm... a public house in the city where the flotilla was based. The fame of the hero, who in the Kriegsmarine from cabin boys to grand admirals was seriously considered to be the sea devil himself with a team of werewolves, did not particularly impress the lady. But an enthusiastic adoration for Captain Marinesko flared up in her when, during the next rendezvous, the bed collapsed under them.

The fact is that the craft of that person was hereditary. So to speak, a family tradition along the female line. And she inherited the bed from her grandmother. We will try to build a crib worthy of such a couple.

Entry level bed

Beds of a simplified design, in which the backs are included in the power circuit, and the legs are made integral with them, are made only for adults in economy class. And then, the legs are separated from the backs and placed on the side close to them so that an angle is formed that gives the product at least minimal rigidity. But all the same, somewhere you have to install additional supports that rest directly on the floor, which is not optimal, see below. Drawings of a bed of this type, designed for moderately intensive use for 10-12 years, are shown in Fig. The front back/wall differs from the back only in the absence of a decorative extension. The material of the backrests is laminated chipboard, the lounger is plywood; the rest is wood. Assembly using self-tapping screws for wood and steel angles. And we will go further, to beds that can withstand a grandmother with many lovers and her offspring.

Material

It is better to make a bed in the “do-it-yourself” category from wood; it will cost less than laminated chipboard with the same complexity of work, but the bed will last for many decades. Solid furniture will be more expensive than laminated chipboard, but you can get by with timber without defects if you take it from a closed heated warehouse. Lumber stored under a shed or in the open air is suitable for furniture only after a long period of drying at home, and due to warping, a lot of waste is generated. You can still make a baby crib, bedside table, chest of drawers or coffee table from such wood, but it definitely won’t fit on an adult bed with its heavily loaded parts.

A bed for several years, until you have enough money for quality furniture, can be made from simple sanded chipboard, not laminated. Along with painting/varnishing or wood-look self-adhesive covering, it will cost no more than wood. The problems of shrinkage and warping naturally disappear, but the service life of the bed will not exceed 20 years due to the natural deterioration of the binder. The designs of beds made of chipboard have a number of features, which are discussed below.

But what if it’s an array?

Solid wood furniture is expensive, but just like chipboard, it is guaranteed against warping and shrinkage. And it will go on the bed much less than on the closet. If you can afford such a prestigious pleasure, then for the sample in Fig. a product of German craftsmen: an original double bed made of structural solid wood. Timber and other lumber are not used. The original version with a headboard-blinds is intended to be installed in the middle of the room. Such a headboard against the wall will gather dust, but you don’t have to make it, or make something else, see below. The array frame alone will take a little more than 2 square meters. m; in terms of money for pine it will be about 10 thousand rubles. The cheapest ready-made solid bed costs at least three times more.

About connections

A wooden bed will be most durable if assembled with carpentry joints. The most commonly used are tongue-and-groove, closed and open, and half-tree or quarter-length mortise. Dowels and dowels are used less frequently due to their lower strength. All wood-to-wood joints must be glued.

Carpentry joints gain design strength for some time, up to 2 weeks, and require fairly high production skills, special tools and a separate workshop, because give a lot of sawdust and shavings. Therefore, a homemade bed is assembled using metal connectors. The fasteners will have to be tightened as the wood dries out, but the bed “on steel” will take the full load immediately after production.

In “temporary” and, in some cases, durable beds (see below), it is advisable to use universal thin-walled perforated steel plates. You can use them to bend corners, pockets, or both together, pos. 1 in Fig. In this case, it is better to take the corners with a stamped stiffener, pos. 2.

It is better to assemble a bed “on steel for a long time” using bolts and nuts; the bolt heads in the front surfaces are sealed in the same way as confirmations: with decorative plugs or putty made of PVA or liquid nails on sawdust. But the locking of the nuts in pairs is a steel washer - a spring washer, as in pos. 2, on the tree is a thing of the past. It is better to take shaped nuts with a grooved bottom surface (press nuts) complete with Teflon washers. Elastic, durable Teflon lasts forever, it will keep the nut from coming loose no worse than a screwdriver or flap washer, and most likely you won’t have to tighten the connection at all.

Note: the use of metal in the main structure of the bed is limited. Why and when it is necessary, see below.

About nails

It’s not customary to talk about connections with nails now. Like, it’s antiquated, but a screwdriver with confirmations is cool. But it’s too early to discount nails. In addition to the low cost of fasteners, nails do not require preparatory operations (drilling), special tools, wear-out replacement working parts for them, and do not produce waste. As for the noise, an experienced carpenter “bales” 100 mm nails with a 200 gram hammer so that it can be heard in the next room only if you listen closely.

There are corrugated nails on sale, see Fig., which hold the wood no worse than confirmed nails and also self-tighten as the wood dries. In nodes where the operational load does not tend to pull out the nail, the connections on them are quite reliable, and if the load is along the nail from the head to the tip, they are absolutely reliable. There are enough such units in the bed, at least attaching spacers to the drawers, see below.

Bed arrangement

The adult-style bed frame is a rectangular frame made of boards placed on the edge - a drawer. The frame can be equipped with additional stiffening ribs; it is placed on legs and the front (footboard) and back (headboard) backrests are attached to it. A bed (lounger, lodgement) is placed in the frame, on which the mattress is placed. To ensure that less lint gets onto the floor and less dust from the floor gets into the mattress, the bed is often covered or covered with a mattress pad made of tarpaulin, canvas, etc. technical fabrics A bed made from a solid slab is also sometimes called a mattress pad.

Note: in mattresses on a rigid base (spring and rather expensive orthopedic), the bed and the mattress pad are included in the mattress. But a bed tray under them is still needed for the reasons described below.

Tsargi

The drawers are made of planks or chipboard. Plywood ones are not suitable, because... plywood is very flexible and is prone to delamination over long lengths under dynamic loads. Tsar thickness from 30 mm; width for a bed up to 2.2x1.6 m from 170, but better from 200 mm.

In high-quality beds, the frames are connected with dowels or, if an open connection is acceptable due to aesthetics, with a half-timber mortise, a through tenon with wedging, or a dovetail. Keyed connections are not applicable in this case, because do not exclude displacement of the frames along the key, and in this direction the greatest loads occur on the connection. To lay the bed from the inside, support bars are attached to the drawers. They crash into each other at the corners halfway up the tree, on the left in Fig.

In simpler and cheaper beds, the drawers are assembled into a frame using metal fasteners (corners + hardware), and the support bars at the corners do not meet, on the right in Fig. Under the bed on the lamellas (see below), spacers can be attached to them, but not necessarily, separating the nests of the lamellas. They may or may not be on the frames of beds of any class, depending on the design of the slats and the bed as a whole.

Note: if the support bar under the lamellas is placed on the frame assembly, the spacers are nailed to it in advance. If the spacers are placed on the drawer assembly, then they need to be nailed to the board.

About prefabricated sidewalls

A bed in the bedroom on the sides with textile inserts is much more hygienic, because... dynamic loads effectively ventilate the under-bed space. One of the designs of the prefabricated sidewall is shown in Fig. on right. The side drawers cut into the front with a hidden (blind) spike. The fabric insert can be solid, depending on aesthetics, then a spacer is not needed. It is also not necessary to fasten the fabric with dowels in the grooves, as in industrial production; it can be secured with slats nailed from the inside. Then the loops for nails are cut in the fabric in advance, the slats are nailed down so that the material can be grabbed, the fabric is stretched and the slats are nailed tightly. The fabric must be decated, i.e. Soaked and dried 2-3 times.

Bed

If the bed frame has partitions, say, for drawer niches that can act as stiffening ribs, and the mattress is on a rigid frame, then sometimes they don’t make a bed at all, pos. 1 in Fig. below. In this case, a sheet of 8-16 mm plywood with ventilation holes is laid under the soft mattress, pos. 2. But this is far from the optimal option, and not only due to the high consumption of material and the amount of waste.

The bedside not only holds the mattress, but at the same time provides ventilation for it and the space under the bed. It must have a certain elasticity in order to take on those same dynamic loads, and transfer to the frame only what it can withstand from grandmother to granddaughter without creaking. Therefore, the bed of a “real adult” bed is made from loosely laid boards - slats. A plywood mattress pad under a very soft mattress is placed on them, and without slats it will turn out to be something like a pressing punch for the bed.

Lamels

The slats can be laid across or along the bed. Mechanically, transverse ones are better; they dampen dynamic loads more smoothly and more evenly. They also provide the sweetest sleep and everything else on the bed, because... play up and down in accordance with body movements. If the width of the bed is more than 1.1 m, the slats are most often made double, laid in 2 rows. Then in the middle of the frame along its length a support beam of lamellas is installed - a spar, pos. 3. In factory models, the spar is made of steel pipe with sockets and/or a support platform for the lamellas.

Note: don't be surprised by aviation terminology; further on there will also be stringers with ribs. The designers of the first airplanes adopted a lot, among others, from furniture makers, incl. and terms.

The wooden axial support of the lamellas requires additional reinforcement from below, because it accounts for the maximum (antinode, in technical terms) of dynamic loads. For the reasons stated below, any support posts should be avoided. We’ll see in a little while what a home-made man should do.

The slats can be flat or curved upward. The latter are bent in advance; it is impossible to install flat boards in the spacer instead of slats: they will quickly shake the bed, even if they are only sleeping on it. The bent slats of expensive beds are equipped with plastic tips that provide the required gap between the slats (see below) without spacers on the support bars and effectively dampen alternating forces.

Bent slats are designed for fairly expensive mattresses; as a rule, complete or recommended for the bed. Anyone lying on this feels like a boyar on a swan's feather bed, but the mattress is in the middle and lower price segment, incl. orthopedic, on bent slats sometimes it gets confused, and bed neighbors in their sleep roll down to the edge or fall on top of each other.

It is better for a home craftsman to make do with flat slats. Firstly, any mattress will lie on them; those for the royal-boyar down jackets are also designed for a flat bed. Secondly, the lamellas can then be made solid, and the spar can be replaced with 2 stringers, pos. 4. The antinode of the dynamics will be in the free space, and the stringers will use timber from 75x50, placed on the edge. True, l’amour le trois on such a bed will not be very pleasant, but we will hope that readers do not suffer from a tendency to deviations in the intimate sphere.

Finally, the bed of a bed with drawers also needs to be spring-loaded for sleep comfort and durability of the product. A spar embedded in the partitions of the drawers will not only limit their capacity, but can have an unpleasant side effect, see below. In this case, there is nothing to do - you will have to lay longitudinal slats, pos. 5.

What not to do with lamellas

First, there is no need to nail the lamellas to the frame and/or “reinforce” them with stringers if there is a spar, pos. 6. The power structure of the bed is designed so that the slats take on the dynamic loads, and the frame takes on the static load. With the lamellas tightly fastened, they will exchange one and the other, which for the person lying down will clearly be expressed in a bad dream. As for the stringers, they simply won’t feel anything in this scheme and will only wonder why they were installed? For the sake of extra labor and material costs? If you are going to make a stock on stringers, then without a spar, see above.

The second mistake is too frequent and/or wide lamellas with small gaps, pos. 7. Ventilation deteriorates and a too-hard spring bed turns into the same punch. The norm for installing lamellas is 6.5+0.5 pcs. per meter of bed size perpendicular to their long axes. Material – board (100-120)x(20-25) or plywood (100-120)x(10-12).

And a completely unforgivable mistake - a dull hard bed, pos. 8. There can be only one justification for the presence of such beds in production and sale: they look “cool” without a mattress on the sales floor. And for the home craftsman there is another minus: why put expensive decorative material where it won’t be visible?

Slats and racks

There are beds with a flaw in the design, sometimes necessary for budget models, but still annoying: the presence of support posts that transfer loads directly to the floor, see fig. on right. Let us remind you that in a proper bed, only the frame should interact with the floor through the legs. And in this product, 2 fatal defects are not necessary, but possible:

• The floor is very hard, for example, laminate on a backing without lag on a self-leveling leveler. Depending on the location of the bed in the room (it is impossible to read or accurately simulate on a home computer), even the involuntary movements of the sleeper through the posts will be reflected back, and the Princess and the Pea effect will arise in the dream.
• The floor is on joists. Due to the different mechanical characteristics of the flooring and the bed frame, although it is absolutely sound and not at all loose, it will turn out to be creaky. Especially at the most inappropriate moments for the perception of such sounds.

Legs, floor and frame

The legs of the bed, like the slats, work in two ways. Even threefold, if you take into account the possibility of its movement. But in a bed that stands in its place inviolably, they not only hold the frame. It is in the legs that both the remnants of bed dynamics and its impact from the floor are extinguished. The interaction of loads opposite in the direction of propagation promotes resonance; This is one of the possible reasons why the bed squeaks and creaks, no matter how you move it or tighten it.

To avoid resonance, the bed legs must, in addition to general strength, have a low mechanical quality factor. Therefore, legs made of boards or L-shaped chipboard are bad, they ring well. They are also known to break easily when moving the bed. So its legs need to be made of timber; preferably coniferous species. A cross-section of 50x50 will be sufficient for both strength and vibration damping. Thicker, of course, won’t hurt, especially if the tree of the legs is dense deciduous, then it is advisable to take from 100x100.

Thickening the timber legs also provides design advantages: in an expensive bed, or a homemade one for a long time, the frame drawers cut into the legs without any problems in any way, as on the left in Fig. This will not only strengthen the bed, but will also reduce the likelihood of squeaking to nothing, and will also allow you to make a strong headboard, incl. oblique, see below. And in a simple bed “on steel” the same legs ensure high strength of the corners of the frame; therefore - the entire bed, in the center in Fig.

Finally, the side drawers, unloaded by powerful legs, will make it possible to make a bed such that a Swedish grandmother could not even dream of. Namely: strengthen the frame with transverse stiffeners - ribs, on the right in the figure, from boards placed on edge that are half as wide and thick as the frames. They put ribs under the bed, they don’t replace it! They are attached to the drawers either by cutting them with a through tenon (not halfway through or into the middle!), or using metal pockets. This is one of the cases when metal in a bed is better than woodwork; for another, see below.

Bed and podium

The bed and the podium have been friends for a long time: for respect in a luxury bedroom, pos. 1 in Fig., for zoning space in a studio apartment, pos. 2, or, conversely, in a cramped one-room apartment, pos. 3. However, not a bed with a podium, but the bed-podium itself as one product, exists mainly in three forms. The first is a bed that pulls out from the podium in the same one-room apartment, pos. 4, or children's, pos. 5, which allows you to save useful area equal to that of the sleeping place. If the ratio of the length of the room to its width is no more than 4/3, then the corner podium bed, pos. 6, has little effect on the ergonomics of the room, you just need to think carefully about the layout.

In an ordinary home, a bed, structurally combined with a podium, pos. 7, is used mainly for hygienic purposes: both the floor under it and the mattress from the floor almost do not collect dust. But this solution is used quite rarely, because the podium resonates easily. Much more often, a bed-podium is placed in a niche, which in itself dampens sounds well, and is equipped with drawers, pos. 8, which allows you to turn an uncomfortable nook into a cozy alcove and save space for a linen closet.

Podium

The podium for the boxes is assembled on the corners with box-shaped hardware from timber from 40x40, on the left in Fig. The maximum size of the horizontal mesh is 400x600 mm. There is no point in increasing the thickness of the timber beyond 50x50, because... the maximum permissible mesh size grows much more slowly than the cross-section of the tree, which increases material consumption without significantly adding strength to the podium.

You can’t make a box-shaped podium for a pull-out bed, unless the bed is floating, complicated and not very reliable. In this case, the upper lathing above the bed niche is assembled with a mesh of up to 300x400 mm, and the transverse links are placed offset, on the right in the figure, or in a checkerboard pattern.

Bed for him

The pull-out bed to the podium is the same frame made of drawers of reduced height. In order to absorb excess loads for weak boards, the support belt is made reinforced, and the corners of its beams are necessarily connected by a half-wood cut using glue and reinforced with pairs of diagonally screwed-in screws, see figure; dimensions – in cm. Glue – PVA or “Express” (liquid nails); fastening with hardware is carried out within no more than 5% of the time of complete hardening of the glue.

Note: This bed rolls out across. To roll out lengthwise, it is enough to turn the clip with rollers 90 degrees horizontally.

Design examples

With drawers

From a hygienic point of view, under-bed linen drawers are, generally speaking, not the best option: things are constantly in stagnant air. In addition, over 90% of indoor dust is kept in a layer of about 20 cm above the floor; This, by the way, is also a weighty argument against pull-out beds. But sometimes there is nowhere to go, there is simply no space for a linen closet or a stationary bed.

The design of beds with drawers faces a number of difficulties, mainly due to the direct interaction of the partitions with the floor. There is no way to fully take into account the mechanics of either gender! You can get around them by constructing a bed in a non-traditional way for furniture, namely, by calculating the spar in a similar way to the backbone frame of a truck, in the form of a powerful beam that can take any load and effectively dampen vibrations. The loads will be transferred to it by all the elements “splayed” to the sides. In the Tatras, this approach made it possible to use independent wheel suspension, which ensured excellent smoothness and cross-country ability, and a bed with drawers on a backbone frame would make it possible to vary their sizes, number and design of the bed as you wish, without thinking about the overall strength and creaks - the backbone will demolish everything .

Note: in production, spinal load-bearing structures are labor-intensive, material-intensive, low-tech and unforgiving of design errors. But this is not a hindrance for a persistent and skillful homemaker.

The spine of the bed is, of course, made not from a large-diameter steel pipe, as in a dump truck, but from a pair of 100x50 beams. The remaining parts of the supporting system, including the inserts between the beams (lengths) of the ridge, are made of 100x100 timber. The backs and drawers, which in this case are simply decorative overlays, can be anything, even cardboard. The dimensions can be taken from the figure, knowing that they are multiples of 10 mm and the overall length of the bed (including the thickness of the headboards) is 2550 mm. Too much? The bed on the ridge can be increased to 3x2 m. Tumble around as you wish, there was only enough living space.

The beams of the supporting frame at the corners must be cut into half the tree using glue and dowels - wedged through bosses, see Fig. The wedges of the dowels are placed crosswise, because they should be positioned perpendicular to the grain of the wood of the attached part. If the beams are thin-layer hardwood, the wedges are placed crosswise diagonally, as in Fig. The frame with the ridge is attached to the legs with screws using an envelope. The contact of the partitions with the floor does not matter; the ridge will absorb vibrations. You can not bring the partitions to the floor.

If you don’t trust innovations, then the bed with drawers will have to be assembled on a rather complex frame that requires no less material. Dimensions and diagram are on the next page. rice. This differs from standard designs in that it allows the installation of transverse slats, incl. bent.

About mattress clamps

What is that there in the ridge - “the location of the mattress clamps”? These are round or square bosses so that the mattress does not rub when fidgeting on the bed, see fig. on right. Wooden ones with glue and nails go to the mattress frame on a hard base; felt ones can be sewn to a soft one. The size and location of the mattress clamps are chosen so that they fit into the grooves or holes of the bed and do not allow the mattress to move.

From chipboard

Chipboard is widely used in inexpensive beds, but almost always in combination with wood. The fact is that generally durable chipboard really “does not like” concentrated loads; it is fragile at the ends, edges and edges, and in small parts it often delaminates during sawing; Chipboard bears alternating loads even worse than plywood. Therefore, in beds made of chipboard, at least the legs, the support belt of the bed and the spar are made of wood; drawings of this type of bed in Fig. Please note that the crossbars made of 40x40 timber in this case are not lamellas, but ribs! There is no stock in the drawing!

However, beds made entirely of chipboard are also found: panel construction on a supporting cross, see fig. on right. There are no small details; the cross with pads dampens the dynamics from both the stock and the floor. The thickness of the slabs is from 30 mm. All edges are edged with T-profile edging for tabletops. It is advisable to use a propylene edge, then you can do without plastic legs if the floor is flat. You can put boxes. A disadvantage, in addition to those common for chipboard, is that if the bed is against the wall, half of the under-bed space disappears, because Under no circumstances should the symmetry of the cross be violated.

A pallet made from building materials is good as a bed base not only and not so much because it is cheap. Firstly, the pallets are made from fairly high-quality wood and, until they are worn out and sold, it will shrink and dry out no worse than selected solid wood. Secondly, the pallet experiences the same loads as the bed, but stronger: they carry bricks over bumps on it! So, as they say, you don’t have to worry about the strength of a bed made of pallets, just sand them, assemble them with long screws as much and as needed, and finish them.

The dimensions of a standard pallet are 100x80 cm, so 4 of them make just a double bed, pos. 1 in Fig. The extra half of the boards is enough for fastening, a headboard, or even a bedside table; the rest will play out the dynamics just in moderation. Under a soft mattress, it is better to cut bars inside to create a bed with a recess, pos. 2; the trimmings will be used for legs or other crafts, the wood is good. And from pallets you can, without further ado, assemble any podium, position. 3.

Finally, the dimensions and shape of the pallet roughly correspond to one of the structural modules of the furniture. Whether amateurs know it or not, there is no shortage of homemade furniture made from pallets. Unfortunately, even a cursory review of it requires a separate publication.

Headboard to bed

A homemade headboard has its own meaning: there are much cheaper mattress beds without headboards on sale; their frame is designed to withstand additional loads. Hobbyists make a variety of headboards on their own. Traditional hard wooden, pos. 1 in the figure is not bad and hygienic, but feeling it on the back of your head or the top of your head is not always pleasant. You can give the back some elasticity by making it on a woven veneer frame, pos. 2, or, in the rustic version, made of wicker, but the wicker back does not fit into every interior and is still not soft. Patchwork back, pos. 3, is quite soft, its aesthetics are determined by the fabric used and therefore can be adapted to any room design. The pads of the patchwork back are made on plywood panels approximately 300x300x(4-6) mm using the soft headboard technology, see below, but simpler: because the fabric is stretched evenly, double padding of the edges is not necessary.

However, the best results are achieved with a classic upholstered headboard. For an amateur who does not know all the intricacies of working with upholstery fabrics, so that the upholstery does not wrinkle, does not stretch, and the filling does not get confused, it should be done with double quilting along the contour, as in pos. 4. Compare pos. 5 and 6. The latter not only wrinkles unsightly, but will soon rub through the scars. The soft headboard of the bed is made in stages as follows, see next. rice:

1. Foam rubber with a density of 35 or more is glued to the base, covered with batting (preferably padding polyester) and pinned along the edge with a furniture stapler. A strip of pure wood (plywood) with a width of 150 mm or more is left at the bottom for attaching to the bed frame;
2. Decorative fabric is also attached to the bottom with a stapler;
3. It is also used to outline the curves, attaching them to the underside of the back with a stapler with an indentation from the edge of approx. 10 cm;
4. The corners are cut with notches. For beginners, it is better to do this together: one in front monitors the tension, and the other in the back forms scars, cuts them and attaches flaps (festoons);
5. Decorative trim along the edges is covered with furniture nails;
6. A much better technically and aesthetically pleasing effect is achieved by a special decorative chain – furniture tape;
7. Using a homemade thicknesser from a square and a piece of chalk (option - soap) the outline of the second row of upholstery is outlined;
8. Along the inner contour, the upholstery is roughly fastened with a stapler, because it is the inner row that keeps the entire skin level;
9. A decorative stitch is applied with the same furniture tape or nails.

Homemade exclusive

An inclined, and even more so a curved headboard is not only more comfortable, but also an indispensable attribute of luxury beds. Meanwhile, it is not difficult to make it yourself: from a board 150 mm wide (thickness from 30 mm; for plywood from 10 mm) comes a headboard with an inclination from the vertical of more than 10 degrees, pos. 1 in Fig., and even more than 20 degrees, pos. 2. From the same blanks, a very beautiful bed with a curved headboard is obtained, only its lathing needs to be done more often, but from thinner, 25-30 mm, slats, pos. 3.

The backrest is attached to the frame and/or legs of the bed with corners. Its back side is sewn with a 4-6 mm fiberboard sheet to hide the fasteners and for rigidity, the blue dotted line in Fig. If the entire bed is in sight, decorations are being made on it. On the front side, you can put the same shield with soft covering or decor on it, a red dotted line on pos. 4. Or you can, having widened the sidewalls for strength and abandoned the front sheathing, sew up the back fiberboard from the face and place a completely soft headboard in the form of a pillow (pillows) in the resulting pocket.

Note: For a curved headboard to maintain the style, it is better to cover the face and back with fiberboard, paint it and complement it in an oriental style with a mattress/mattresses with tassels.

What about single?

A single bed is approximately 1.5 times narrower than a double bed. This seriously changes its mechanics with acoustics, so the design of a single bed is simpler and allows more amateur liberties. A wide variety of design options are possible here, just like for a children's bed. For example, how to make a single bed over the weekend, the materials for which will cost about 1000 rubles, see.

Video: do-it-yourself single bed (under a 190×90 mattress)

From timber

A bed made entirely of timber will cost more than one made from planks or laminated chipboard; its manufacture will require special tools and a carpentry workshop. If you can do all this, you will end up with a lot of benefits:

• Square and round timber, when dried along the length, almost does not warp, which facilitates the selection of material.
• You can, without fear of loss of strength of the product, use hidden dowel connections, see fig. on right.
• The bed will give a solid, prestigious look to even a very simple interior, pos. 1 in Fig. below.
• Possibility to make a bed with floating bedside tables, pos. 2. In amateur conditions, only a massive timber frame will give them reliable support.
• The opportunity to fully express yourself creatively in any variety of rustic or country design, poses. 3-5.
• And not only in rustic styles: a bed made from scraps of small timber, pos. 6 is labor-intensive, but fits into any interior, and a connoisseur will appreciate it on a par with antiques.

Metal in the bed

The “Soviet” dorm and barracks iron beds with armored mesh are of bad memory; thank God, almost all of them have sunk into oblivion. Modern metal beds are either handcrafted, forged, costing thousands of dollars, or their frame is made of a profile pipe coated with plastic, which is not freezing, not ugly, and not traumatic. But the fundamental drawback of metal beds cannot be eliminated: a complete mismatch in mechanical and temperature characteristics with wood and materials based on it. Therefore, in modern metal beds, wood is used only in the form of decorative overlays.

The second serious disadvantage of metal is corrosion, and the third is ductility. That is, the welding seams of steel beds in general consumer segments sometimes crack, and the frame elements bend. Apart from the mounting plates mentioned above, the only case where it is difficult to do without metal in a bed is the frame of the lifting mattress made of metal, see fig. A wooden one, no matter how happy the product of its creator may be at first, soon becomes loose.

All? No, not all.

The world of beds is vast and diverse and, unfortunately, it is not possible to cover it in one publication. For example, you probably know wardrobe beds, sofas and armchairs. But did you know that the folding headboard of a partially extendable bed can also be a coffee table? And that there are accordion beds that regularly serve as bedside tables while waiting for a guest in the family? What about beds without a mattress? In an apartment - not in an apartment, but at the dacha it will be useful, and the savings on a mattress alone are at least 10 thousand rubles. Or, say, a bamboo bed. It looks most luxurious in an exclusive interior, see fig. But, at least technologically, it is quite accessible for self-production.

Well, let's hope that we will have another opportunity to talk about them and various others, and for you to make the bed of your dreams.