Beginning craftsmen, perhaps, at the first stage of their work, make do with only two tools: a hammer and a hacksaw. But as you gain experience, their number no longer becomes enough. You always need to glue two parts together and secure something in a vice or clamps. Making a clamp with your own hands is very easy and simple.
Using the tool, types and its structure
There are no clamps that would one hundred percent meet our needs when carrying out work around the house. Clamps come in different shapes, models and sizes. As a rule, there are not enough of them. Below is a short list of devices for solving assigned tasks in wood and metal processing:
- wooden;
- metal;
- F-shaped;
- C-shaped;
- corner;
- cam;
- G-shaped;
- wire clamps;
- ribbon clips.
Making a clamp yourself is quite simple. Of course, when carrying out work, this is not a tool that is constantly needed. But it doesn't hurt to always have it on hand.
Wooden clamp for screed
One of the most accessible and inexpensive examples to make yourself. It is easy to do and easy to use. For its production, maple or pine planks are taken. Their minimum width can be 5 cm, thickness not less than 0.6 cm. A metal rod with four nuts is used as a lock. To make a handle, you will need any hardwood that does not have visible external defects. The moving part is completely dried and can easily be moved along the metal rod.
At the ends of the rod there are two nuts that are tightened to prevent divergence. You can use a simple locking nut, as well as the original nut with a stationary lock. Additionally, two more nuts and washers are screwed on both sides. These nuts lock each other. Be sure to leave an opening for the rotating pin.
Wooden and steel clamp
It is also shaped like the letter F. Its key difference is the use of metal parts. The durability and strength of the metal plays an important role in this case. The most difficult part is the plate itself, into which the bar will later be inserted. Several holes need to be drilled. When finished, you can clean the metal using a grinder. The plate must move easily on this plate. A gap is drilled at the opposite end of the plate, which should match the thread of the screw stud.
The end should be made at an angle to fully match the cutouts. This is done easily by grinding on a machine. How to make the remaining parts was discussed above.
DIY F-shaped clamp
It is made from both wood and metal. It is shaped like a caliper. It is made from durable wood or plywood sheets. You need to cut recesses on the rail to fix the movable device itself. Typically a worm system for moving the bar is used. The parts are secured with a holder, which is secured with a few turns of the nut. When the holder is released, the part is easily removed from the clamp.
The principle of operation of the clamp
When a specialist works with wooden and metal workpieces and needs to fix the product for precise processing. This can be done using clamps.
Ancient models allowed it to be fixed with one hand, modern models free both hands of the master. Not only are they quick-release, but at the same time they allow you to use both hands. The following types of clamps are known:
- Assembly.
- Manual.
- Angular.
- Screw.
- Lever.
Lever clamps are based not only on the worm-screw principle of operation, but also on the lever mechanism. They are also called clamps. They make it possible to accurately and instantly fix the part. The use of enormous force is not required here; all the main work is done by levers. These clamps have a very simple design, so you can make them yourself at home. This principle of operation allows not only to fasten the part, but also to calculate the compressive force. This is important, for example, when gluing.
Other types of clamps differ only in the method of fastening the parts.
We make carpentry clamps
When working with wood, you often have to fix it, so you can’t do without a carpenter’s clamp. You will definitely need it when you just need to fasten boards or glue together pieces of wood or sheets of trees.
Undoubtedly, such models are commercially available. But they are made from softer alloys, so manufacturers reduce the cost of goods. And they don't always fit in size. A DIY clamp is the best option.
There are a huge number of modifications of clamps on the market. Some of them can be universal, and some are completely disposable and they are made for one technical operation. You just need to understand the principle of operation, then making any option with your own hands will not be difficult. There are no manufacturing standards.
The simplest option is from a hacksaw for metal. She gets ready quickly. But its use is limited. Although this functionality is sufficient for working with small objects.
The fastening elements are bolts, at one end of which there is a nut, at the other end there may be a removable handle or an open-end wrench.
Since the frame can be adjusted in length, this will allow you to work with workpieces of different widths. Mainly used for gluing parts. It will not be possible to attach it to the table, since the design does not allow it. But if there are no other suitable tools, then this option will come in handy as always.
Manufacturing of bench clamps
Locksmith work in an unequipped room always has one constant problem that locksmiths have to face, this is the fastening of workpieces. It is impossible to exclude movement of the workpiece on the table if the table is not equipped with fasteners. One of these affordable and very simple means is a DIY bench clamp.
In order to make a clamp with your own hands, you need to have minimal skills in plumbing. For its production, wood, studs, rolled metal, pipes, and wooden beams are used. It also wouldn't hurt to have a welding machine. The most important thing when carrying out any work is to follow the instructions and observe safety precautions.
Consider the option of making a clamp from wood. You can choose the size yourself, which one is most suitable for the type of work. The end result should be a screw type clamp.
- Transfer the templates of wooden blanks to a sheet of cardboard. The sizes are selected independently.
- Next, transfer the blank templates to a wooden board. A variety of hardwood is ideal for these purposes.
- The part is cut out using a hacksaw or jigsaw. The contour of the part is processed with a file and sanding paper.
- In the center of the workpiece, mark the location for the hole. The bolt axis will pass through it. The hole in the upper part of the fixing jaw is widened with a round file to dimensions 1.5 or 2.5 times wider than the size of the bolt itself.
- Drill a hole in the handle for the nut. The diameter must match the number of the wrench. Use a rasp or file to shape the hole into a hexagon. We seat the nut in the hole with epoxy resin and, alternatively, any other solid adhesive.
- The clamp is assembled, the bolt is secured with glue in the lower part of the fixing jaw. Loops are attached at the back to open the fastening jaws. Place the upper jaw on the bolt and tighten it with a handle.
In fact, there are a large number of examples for making clamps at home. For these purposes, for example, it is possible to remake metalworking hacksaws.
Making a clothespin clamp
One of the simplest and most popular clamps is the clothespin clamp. Making a clamp with your own hands is very simple. The principle of operation of such a clamp is similar to the principle of a clothespin. Only the sizes here will be larger.
First you need to cut out blanks from plywood. In total you need to prepare 10 such parts. Five out of ten should have a rounded bulge in the center. The length of each jaw of the holder is 15 cm.
It should be noted that if you need a larger model, then you need to use stronger and thicker plywood.
We begin to glue the profiles of the blanks one by one. First there should be a profile with a convexity. There should be two such clamps. We connect them together so that the ridges fit into the grooves.
If everything is done correctly, then such a clamp will be movable and work like a clothespin. We wrap an elastic band around a clamp. That's all, the DIY clamp is ready.
How to choose a clamp when purchasing
The clamp is a fairly simple device and there should be no problems with the choice. The main thing before buying is to check its serviceability so that the body does not have cracks. The screw part should be easy to screw in and out. See how tightly the lips fit. They should be even. If the kit includes rubber gaskets, try them out. They are needed in order not to leave marks on soft materials during fastening. The device must also be lightweight and durable.
Processing workpieces on a carpentry bench will be convenient when using various devices that fix the parts on the table surface. With your own hands, you can make both the simplest stops and clamps, and universal systems that allow you to secure workpieces of any configuration.
Simple wooden stops for a carpentry workbench - drawing, example
Homemade bench stops made of wood do not dull the tool and do not damage the ends of the parts. The devices are divided according to the type of rod and inserted into holes of the appropriate shape.
Rectangular wedges do not rotate and ensure absolute immobility of the workpiece. The stops themselves are easy to make, but hollowing out the square sockets will take a lot of time and effort. It is advisable to install these holes in tabletops made of solid boards at the stage of manufacturing a carpentry workbench.
On working surfaces made of sheet material, it is more correct to use stops with a cylindrical rod. Such devices are convenient for fastening curved parts, and holes for them can always be drilled in the right place. Rigid fixation of rectangular workpieces is achieved by installing an additional bar with two rods.
How to make a stop with a round rod
Birch, cherry, maple or walnut are suitable for the bench stop rod. The top strip is made of the same hardwood or plywood. A low-profile stop can be made from high-density laminated board left over from the flooring installation.
Decide on the diameter of the rod. If you plan to purchase ready-made retainers later, choose the standard size of 19 mm. If you are confident in further independent production of accessories for a carpentry workbench, use a diameter of 21 mm. This is the outer size of half-inch water pipes from which homemade clamping clamps are made. Approximately the same value corresponds to the nominal diameter of three quarter pipes suitable for the manufacture of round wooden rods.
Take a piece of pipe with a diameter of 3/4 inch, a length of 60–80 mm and a thread of at least 20 mm. Sharpen the edges on one end and screw the nut onto the other.
Insert the device into the inch pipe and drive a birch stick through it, hitting it from above with a heavy hammer.
Trim the wood when the wood chips hit the nut. It may seem easier to take a longer tube, but it will be much more difficult to penetrate.
After running the stick, remove the burrs with sandpaper. Wooden rods made in this way may have minor imperfections that do not affect the overall shape of the cylinder. At the beginning of setting up a home workshop, when there are no special machines yet, you will not find an easier way to make a round stick with your own hands.
Draw the top parts of the stops on the workpieces in the required quantity and mark the centers for drilling holes.
Using a feather drill, make indentations half the thickness of the material. Start drilling at low speeds, pressing lightly on the drill. At the moment of contact, marks will appear on the surface, which will show where the tool should be deflected for perpendicular drilling.
Saw the workpieces, sand the ends and countersink the holes for the screws.
Apply wood glue to the stud and into the recess.
Connect the parts, press them with your hands and wipe off excess glue. Insert the rod into the hole in the table top and tighten the screw.
After ten minutes, carefully remove the stop, pushing from below and without moving the parts. Leave the device until the glue dries completely.
Drill holes for bench stops where you consider necessary. Most often they are needed on the left side of the table for planing workpieces and next to the vice for joint use. The distance between the centers of the holes should be the same everywhere and correspond to the size of the long stops. Before drilling, attach an unnecessary board to the bottom so that there are no chips when the drill comes out.
How to make a stop for cutting boards
The stop located on the side of the tabletop is convenient for cross-cutting boards. When it is not needed, its rotating part is lowered and is out of the way. Use the tool in conjunction with a long bench stop, holding the board firmly with one hand while using the hacksaw with the other.
Cut the wooden stop pieces from leftover hardwood. Make two countersink holes in the fixed part and one in the turning strip, exactly matching the diameter of the screw being used.
Mark on the end of the table the location of the moving part in line with the bench stop.
Secure the turntable first, adding a block if necessary to increase the thickness of the tabletop. Next, install a stationary part perpendicular to it.
Universal bench clamps
Movable fasteners allow you to fix various workpieces and removable work panels on the carpentry workbench. The clamps move in metal guides with a T-groove (T-slots) embedded flush with the table surface, which can be aluminum or steel.
How to make guides with your own hands
An analogue of factory rails with a T-shaped slot can be easily made from a metal pipe of rectangular or square cross-section. A profile with a height of no more than half the thickness of the tabletop is suitable. Immediately select the bolts and mark the cutout on one side of the pipe in proportion to the diameter of the bolt.
Cut the groove with a grinder, trim the edges with a file and round the edges with sandpaper.
Select suitable profile trims for making sliders if the hex head is smaller than the groove and rotates in it.
Drill holes for the bolts and cut the brackets, calculating their height to be 1-2 mm less than the internal passage of the profile.
How to embed guides into a tabletop
Use a hand router to make a recess in the countertop. If the profile being cut is wider than the cutter, make the groove in two approaches.
Draw a marking on the surface and install a flat panel parallel to it. To prevent chipping when the cutter comes out, attach a wooden strip close to the end.
Adjust the routing depth stop and select the groove in several passes.
Rearrange the panel, cut out the remaining material and sand the recess with abrasive paper.
Secure the guides with screws, making recesses in the metal for the caps.
How to make a simple clamp bar
Customizable clamping systems provide a variety of options for securing parts to your woodwork. The simplest design is a clamping bar, fixed with bolts sliding in T-shaped tracks.
Saw strips of plywood, adding 20 mm to the width of the parts indicated on the drawing, in order to later trim the glued workpiece and get perfectly straight ends. For the middle part, plywood scraps of the same thickness will do.
Glue the parts together, drill holes with a countersink 25 mm from the edges and tighten the screws on both sides. After the glue has dried, saw the workpiece to final size using a circular saw.
Cut plywood washers with a diameter slightly larger than the width of the clamping strip.
Carefully drill holes for the bolts in them.
Place the tool on the surface of a woodworking bench, put on washers and tighten with wing nuts.
The clamping bar is excellent for holding large workpieces and also as a side stop along which to guide the tool, for example when routing a longitudinal groove.
How to make clamps from plywood
Simple and convenient clamps in the form of brackets are fixed on the workbench in the same T-slots, are easy to move and allow you to fix a variety of parts in any position.
The device consists of a plywood part with a groove, a bolt with a slider, washers, a wing nut and a metal sleeve.
To make wooden elements you will need a template; it can be easily drawn on paper following our instructions.
The procedure for making a template
Trace the template onto the plywood and use an awl to mark the center of the drill.
Make a hole with a 22mm diameter drill bit.
Prepare the remaining pieces and attach them together using wood glue and screws. Sand the ends, paying particular attention to the top semi-circle and the bottom rounded parts.
Take a half-inch tube and measure a length on it the length of the plywood staple. Drill a hole in the center for the bolt and cut the bushing to size. File off the metal burrs and sand the surfaces.
Assemble the clamp by placing washers under the nut.
The clamp in the photo below is simpler and is made in a similar way. When using this design, you have to place a pad of approximately the same thickness under the second arm of the lever, otherwise there will be a misalignment of the bolt, leading to deformation of the guide rail.
Increase the capabilities of the clamping system by making another T-shaped track from a profile pipe. By placing the guide between the rails embedded in the table, you can fasten parts anywhere on the carpentry workbench.
This additional strip is fixed at the edges with short bolts, and inside the profile there are small plywood inserts with holes.
The considered devices for a carpentry workbench are easy to manufacture and are suitable for securing most workpieces. Further work in carpentry will require new stops or clamps, which ingenuity will help you come up with, and experience that comes gradually will allow you to do them.
A clamp is a tool that allows you to fix a part during processing. Craftsmen often use various types of clamps in their work. Whether you are a carpenter or a metalworker, there is always a need to use it.
This device is available in different versions, from universal to specialized. Relatively recently, a new modification has appeared: a quick-release clamp. Develops compression force up to 450 kg.
The task for all types is common - to fix the workpieces for processing or connecting to each other.
Like any other tool, clamps can be purchased at the store or made yourself. The second option is often chosen by professionals. It’s easier to come up with your own design than to look for an option for individual tasks.
Homemade clamps - varieties and manufacturing technologies
Angle clamp
Such devices are used to fix two objects (not necessarily the same size) at right angles, to connect them together in any way. These can be wooden blanks when gluing, or assembling using corners and confirmat.
However, most often, an angle clamp is used as a jig for welding metal parts at right angles.
For production you will need:
- steel corner 40 mm, thickness 3-4 mm;
- steel plates 40-50 mm wide;
- threaded studs, preferably hardened;
- rods for gates;
- nuts for the worm gear;
- welding machine;
- drill, taps.
We weld the corners to the steel plates at a strictly 90° angle.
We attach a worm structure to each side by welding. This is the same corner with a welded-on thrust nut or thickening, in which a thread is cut in accordance with the collar pin. The width of the working gap is selected according to the potential workpiece.
IMPORTANT! If the range of sizes of the parts being processed is too wide, it is better to make several clamps. Too much movement of the knob does not contribute to a strong fixation.
A collar pin is screwed into the working nut, after which a stop is assembled at its end. As a rule, this is a structure of two metal washers of different sizes. The stop should rotate freely on the pin.
On the back side of the knob we drill a hole into which we insert a metal rod as a lever.
A properly assembled metal clamp allows you to securely fasten steel parts during welding, or wooden parts during carpentry. The design is so simple to make - that it has become a real staple among home-made craftsmen.
With its square nest design, making panels is a very common task in carpentry. In fact, trees of such thickness that you can cut out, say, a tabletop from them are not very common and there are not enough of them for everyone. Moreover, wide boards are often specially chopped into small pieces and re-glued. This greatly reduces the likelihood of their warping and cracking in their subsequent furniture incarnation.
The gluing process itself contains a number of important points - thickness, orientation of layers, glue thickness, which will be discussed later, but now we are talking about a mechanism for convenient compression of pre-prepared wooden blanks. This is a specialized clamp - vayma. To glue one board, use at least two clamps.
Here it should be said that there is a way to fasten workpieces with these “teeth”, which allows you to increase the gluing area and, accordingly, its strength. Practice, however, shows that since the use of “samovar” wood glue from dry tiles, the chemical industry has stepped far forward, and now, any gluing of even ends is stronger than the main wood. In any case, their coniferous varieties, from which shields are usually glued. Therefore, planing is quite enough.
So, the possible options.
Analysis of existing analogues.
The solution is “head-on”. It’s more convenient than gluing it directly on the workbench, but not by much. The only plus is the simplicity of the design. The base, however, must be very rigid, especially for any significant length.
When gluing, additional simple carpentry clamps and an even strip along the width of the board are required to prevent it from bending under load. However, with infrequent work, the design is quite justified; some complication of the technology can be easily survived.
Symmetrical design. In general, it logically follows from the previous, simple one. The end stops are movably attached to two flat sidewalls. When an axial force is applied, the sidewalls are simultaneously compressed.
Several options for end stops.
The blue version, in addition to painting, is notable for the fact that most of the details are standard - large hardware, a rectangular pipe.
There was even a do-it-yourself construction kit. “Tooths” for stepwise changes in the width of the workpiece will make it easier to push the mechanism onto the workpiece. It is proposed to make the most large and inconvenient parts to store and transport yourself from hard wood. Therefore, the set, presumably, costs a penny.
Practice, however, shows that no matter how careful you are, there will still be glue on the clamps, which can be peeled off from the pieces of iron without damaging them, even using very crude methods, including using an angle grinder. Wooden parts will either have to be protected with rough wooden gaskets, or simply changed frequently. Both are not very convenient.
Homemade metal analogue.
It can be seen that there are no special stop pads here, therefore, in order not to spoil the edges of the future shield with dents, a technological gasket made of wood is placed.
Less obvious clamp design – asymmetrical. The solution is ingenious, simple and elegant.
Our response to Chamberlain.
MASHKOV: Astronauts! Which zappa is here?
BI: There, a rusty nut, dear.
MASHKOV: Everything here is rusty!
BI: And this one is the rustiest.
Kin-Dza-Dza!
I offer my version of symmetrical clamps. The clamps are made without the use of stationary equipment - only with hand tools. Electric welding was used a little, but this was more due to the delight of a neophyte - in those days, he was just mastering the welding inverter and applying the new skill wherever possible.
The materials used were only standard hardware and two types of rolled metal - a rectangular pipe and a strip. Four identical wedges were made, with their help many different blanks were glued together, both of a purely utilitarian nature and for decorative ones.
The size of the clamps is for boards of moderate size, with a maximum width of approximately 700...750 mm, however, you can connect the clamps in pairs and glue large boards in two steps. The length of the shield depends on the number of clamps and with four pieces, it can reach 1...1.5 m. A number of symmetrical holes on the sides of the clamp allows you to easily rearrange its back stop, for convenient work when tightening narrow panels.
The design of the upper screw clamp is simple and technologically advanced; the materials for it are also standard rolled products and hardware, which is a big advantage in conditions of lack of access to machine tools.
The body of the screw clamp is made from a section of the same rectangular pipe 40x25, inside it there is an M12 extension nut.
The nut is held only by the threaded rod and the walls of the housing; the narrow side of the housing does not allow the nut to turn. When unscrewing the stud, the nut simply falls out of the body. The solution is very repairable - in case of thread damage, the elements are easily replaced with standard inexpensive hardware.
The back stop is also made from a piece of 40x25 mm pipe, held in place by two pairs of earrings. To compensate for the thickness of the “overlap”, two standard M10 washers are placed under one of the pairs, on each side (see photo below).
"Compensation" washers.
What was used for the job.
Tools, equipment.
A set of ordinary plumbing tools, a good vice, a hand-held electric drill. Marking tool - tape measure, square, scriber or alcohol felt-tip pen. For cutting pieces of iron - angle grinder. An electric sharpener will come in handy. Welding was used in some places, but it can be done without it. When working with electric tools, be sure to use safety glasses and headphones.
Materials.
Rectangular pipe 40x25, strip stud with M12 thread, bolts, nuts, M10 washers.
Let's get started. Sidewalls.
We decide on the required number of clamps and purchase the necessary materials.
We cut pieces of a rectangular pipe, mark them, and mark the centers of the holes. If you have a machine, you can drill from one side, right through, but if you work with a hand tool, it is better not to be lazy and additionally mark and drill the reverse side. It is better to drill holes in metal with a relatively large diameter at low speeds. It is convenient to work with a hammer drill in drilling mode, while its clamp is equipped with a small three-jaw drill chuck with a simple adapter. Often, such equipment is included in the hammer drill kit. High power and low speeds make working with such a tool very convenient.
After cutting and drilling, do not forget to dull the sharp edges.
We cut, mark, drill. I marked the rounded edges without any fuss - by applying a suitable coin. We grind the edges on a sharpener, dulling the sharp edges. With a magic file, in a vice.
Earring. 8 pcs. Material – strip 20x5 mm.
Screw clamp, back stop.
I cut the threaded rods to the required length and welded a long “connecting” nut to one end.
Sketch of a screw clamp, where: 1,2 – extension nut M12; 3 – body (pipe 40x25 mm); 4 – threaded rod M12.
If there is no access to welding work, the screwed nut can be drilled and a transverse rocker arm with stops can be inserted into it, in the manner of a vice gate. The rest is obvious.
Every craftsman who makes products and parts made of metal or wood cannot do without homemade clamps. Previously, such a tool was produced in various modifications, from specialized to universal. The main task is to fix the workpiece for processing and joining operations. Let's look at how to make a quick-release clamp with your own hands in various variations.
Angle clamp
This type of do-it-yourself metal clamp is designed for fixing two objects at right angles and connecting them to each other using any methods, however, the main purpose is as a jig for welding metal parts at the angle required for work. To make it properly , you will need the following components:
Corners should be welded at 90 degrees to metal or steel plates. We attach the worm-type structure by welding, and screw a pin-driver into the working nut in order to assemble a stop at the end. The stop must turn freely. Then we need to drill a hole on the back side where we insert a metal rod as a lever. The incredibly simple design and practicality of use have become the key to the popularity of such a clamp among everyone who works with metal and products made from it.
Carpenter's clamp
Such designs used in carpentry are of the following types:
- Standard clamp, which is the most popular or simple;
- In the form of a caliper for small parts and quick fixation;
- Self-clamping clamp for milling processes and working with workpieces of various heights.
The first type is made from two pine blocks, a locking nut, rods, threaded wing nuts and thrust washers. The manufacturing process is very simple:
- We cut out the working pliers from the bars, drill holes for the studs, taking into account a small amount of play;
- We screw in the studs and lock them using appropriate methods;
- We ensure alignment with nuts, made either in the form of wings or standard nuts for improved tension.
The second option is used when prompt fixation of small parts is necessary. Production is carried out from small bars and thin-sheet plywood. Furniture nuts and collar pins act as a worm system. One stop is stationary; we attach it to the end of the guide rail, in which we cut out recesses to fix the moving mechanism.
There are both portable and stationary versions of this design, where grooves are cut for movement with the fastening of fixed stops. The clamp is a furniture nut, a hairpin and a knob. Due to this, you can work with workpieces of any size.
The self-clamping design has a lever with an eccentric at the rotating end. We turn it at a certain angle, a quick clamp is automatically obtained. The height is adjusted with a pin on the workbench. It is made individually for each matrix, depending on its purpose and the purpose of the work being carried out.
Pipe clamp
Welding metal pipes end to end is a complex operation. It is considered simpler to weld the pipe to the finished system. The design for such cases is made of a metal angle and steel plates. The halves of such a device should be fixed using the traditional method, namely with threaded rods. As a result, you can get a fairly simple and effective design, which will greatly facilitate the work when welding pipes with various designs.
There are other types of designs, including cam mechanisms, tape and wire clamps, which can be useful for working with specific structures, including particularly fragile and thin ones. However, their production is the subject of separate master classes and articles on specialized resources.
Homemade clamps are indispensable assistants for any craftsman working with metal and wooden parts and products. Making them is quite simple and very exciting. Here it is important to follow the manufacturing technology, find the best instructions and videos. You can buy clamps, but they may ultimately not be suitable due to the specificity of the workpiece or work. This is why you should make your own clamps. Good luck working with various workpieces and making homemade quick-release clamps!
