The girls are taking them on a hike,
Dad, mom and Siamese cat."
(With)
1.
2.
I think it's obvious that the first way is better
I. By type of fastening:
II. By connection type:
with horizontal teeth
with vertical teeth 
Antipodlips
Shipping
Care and operation
Sharpening teeth
Storage
Example such cats.
“Instead of sandals, a pair of tights
The girls are taking them on a hike,
And they look at them with wild eyes
Dad, mom and Siamese cat."
(With)
Climbing cats are one of the essential elements equipment for mountain hiking and mountaineering. They are invariably used by both climbers and mountain tourists.
There are two approaches to choosing cats:
1.
Buying boots, then selecting crampons for them
2.
Buying crampons, then selecting boots for them
I think it's obvious that the first way is better after all, shoes are much more difficult to choose. Having bought crampons first, we increase the requirements for choosing boots.
So, you decided to do everything “by science” - first you bought boots, and then took them to the store to buy climbing crampons. This is where you will encounter a huge variety of these “animals”. Let's find out!
Cats can be classified in different ways. Below we have classified cats by the following signs: by type of fastening, by type of connection, by type of front teeth.
I. By type of fastening:
II. By connection type:
with horizontal teeth- for classic mountaineering and “horizontal” mountain tourism climbing cats quite enough. "Horizontal" crampons work well on snow, firn, summer ice, rocks. If your plans do not include ice climbing and climbing long ice walls, crampons with horizontal front teeth are perfect for you.
with vertical teeth— designed primarily for work on steep, including steep or overhanging hard ice. Crampons with such teeth are necessary on technically difficult ice and mixed (rocks + ice) routes.
Antipodlips
A very important addition to cats are “anti-slippers”. In most cases, when climbing, a climber does not deal with pure ice terrain, but with alternating areas of snow, firn, ice, ice covered with snow, rocks, etc. When the snow is wet, it may stick to the crampon block. Snow stuck in a lump on the block negates the effectiveness of the teeth, making slippage and subsequent failure possible. Crampons with snow stuck to them can turn into a deadly trap, so the climber must take all measures to prevent such a turn of events. Knocking snow out of crampons with an ice ax shaft or sticks should be considered a last resort and not a recommended technique. Therefore, no matter what kind of crampons you get, you cannot do without the so-called anti-slip pads, that is, plastic or rubber plates attached to the crampon that reflect the snow and prevent it from sticking to the crampon's pad. All modern cats have anti-stick systems installed right away, but if yours doesn’t have them, it doesn’t matter! Antipodlips are also sold separately.
Shipping
In order not to tear or damage the rest of the equipment while transporting cats, it is convenient to use a special rubber protection for the teeth. You can also purchase a special case for cats. Another option is to make such a case yourself from a piece thick fabric(old jeans) or other material that cats cannot tear.
Care and operation
Test your crampons before using them at home before going to the mountains!
- Check for loose bolts or rivets. If necessary, screw it in or replace it.
- Check for worn straps/buckles. Replace if required.
- Make sure the staples are in good condition and fit within the radius of the boot.
- Check the places where the crampons are attached to the boot: does the crampon fit tightly on the back and front welt?
- Carry with you or at least keep in the base camp: iron wire, cord and spare parts (straps, buckles, staples, bolts).
Sharpening teeth
The teeth on climbing crampons need to be sharpened periodically! In “dumb” crampons, when going out on the ice, the risk of a breakdown greatly increases! Cats become dull most quickly when wearing them on rocks. For sharpening, use a regular hand file. You cannot use a sharpening machine, because it overheats the metal, thereby weakening its hardness and strength. Sharpen the edges and the point as sharp as possible, but do not make “needles” out of the teeth - otherwise, when you go to the relief, they will immediately become dull/break. Straighten any bent teeth if possible.
Storage
Most climbing crampons are made of rusting steel, so wipe down and dry the crampons before putting them in the closet. It may be useful to treat them with an anti-corrosion agent (WD-40)
To summarize all of the above, the ideal option for a novice hiker/climber would be crampons with a soft mount, with horizontal front teeth, semi-rigid (not platform!), and with anti-sticks. Example such cats.
As a rule, experienced climbers eventually have more than one pair of crampons for different routes. If you still have questions about choosing climbing crampons in general, or for any specific route, write to us, we will definitely solve them :)
Mountain tourism, classical or technical mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed doubles - in all these sports you cannot do without cats. Without this device, safe and confident movement on ice, snow, firn (packed dense snow) and icy rocks is very difficult.
Photo (c) Marc Daviet.
Any person, even those far from mountaineering, knows what crampons are - a metal device with sharp teeth, which is attached to the sole of the boot and makes it easier to move on ice and snow.
Today, manufacturers offer a wide selection of cat models designed for the most different conditions- from simple glacier walks to extreme mixed climbing. A different design, which can be softer or more aggressive, helps to adapt crampons to all kinds of mountain routes.
To choose the right crampons, you need to understand how models designed for different types mountain sports, and which of these types you plan to engage in.
Photo (c) Jon Griffith.
General structure of cats
Most modern crampons consist of separate front (under the toe of the boot) and back (under the heel) parts, held together by a connecting dimensional bar. The front and rear parts are equipped with sharp teeth, which can have different shapes And varying degrees strength. The crampons are also equipped with a special mount for boots.
Dimensional connecting strips, as a rule, are made of steel and differ from each other in shape (straight or curved), length and number of holes. The bar helps you adjust the crampons to your shoe size and type.
Today you can rarely find models with a solid rigid platform- they are becoming a thing of the past (for example, large manufacturers Petzl and Black Diamond do not currently have such a variation in their model range). Modern plank fastening of the front and rear parts of crampons is no less stable than platform fastening, and, as a rule, weighs less.
Antipodlip- a durable rubber or plastic backing for the front and back of the crampons, thanks to which snow does not stick between the teeth. Snow accumulation is potentially dangerous: it reduces traction and can cause a stall. The anti-podlip is especially effective when walking on wet snow, but when climbing on ice or mixed terrain there is no need for it. Each model of cats has its own anti-stick models; as a rule, they are not included with the cats, but are purchased separately.
Types of front teeth in different cat models
The fundamental difference between the teeth in different cat models is their location and shape, the presence of serrations, the ability to adjust the position of the teeth and replace them. The number of teeth is not the most important factor; on average, their number varies between 10-14 pieces.
Crampons for mountain tourism, trekking and ski mountaineering usually have wide, flat front teeth that cannot be replaced or adjusted. This design helps you move confidently on soft snow and ice terrain, but is ineffective for climbing.
More aggressive crampons, suitable for mountaineering, ice climbing and mixed doubles, are equipped with sharper and more durable serrated front teeth. Some of these models provide the ability to replace the front teeth and adjust their position.
Some models have only one front tooth. This “mono-tooth” design is used in sport crampons designed for extreme mixed and ice climbing routes.
Boots with crampons on them various shapes front teeth: wide, flat on the model on the left and more durable with serrations on the model on the right. The model on the right can also remove the teeth and change their position. The fastenings for these cats are also different: on the left is flexible, on the right is a welt fastening. Photo from the website “Your Element”.
Mounting types for different cat models
Depending on the fastening device, crampons can be worn on a variety of shoes - be it mountaineering or ski boots or regular sneakers (you just need to be aware that different shoes also designed for different tasks).
All cat models have two fastenings: front and rear. According to their shape, they are divided into so-called flexible fastenings and welt fastenings.
Flexible mounts allow you to attach crampons to any type of shoe and tighten them with a strap and buckle. This mount is universal, but it is not rigid and allows the cats some freedom.
In general, crampons that have both the front and rear mounts are flexible are designed to mountain tourism and simple mountaineering routes when worn with trekking boots or other footwear designed for walking on snow and climbing on soft, non-steep ice. During difficult climbing, due to the existing play, the flexible mount is unreliable.
Welt fastenings They are metal brackets that “fit” firmly into special recesses provided in some models of ski and mountaineering shoes. Actually, these recesses are called welts, and shoes with them are called welted.
Rear mounts under the welt are of the “frog” type - a latch with precise screw adjustment - or, like the front ones, they can be a simple wire bracket with a lock.
A sling is also provided in crampons with brackets, but is no longer part of the fastening, but performs a safety function: it prevents you from “losing” the crampon.
Depending on the model, mounting types can be combined. Thus, manufacturers offer options where both fastenings are flexible or under a welt, and options where one fastening is flexible and the second under a welt. The choice of model will depend on what shoes you plan to wear with crampons.
Modern manufacturers often produce the same model of crampons with different types of fastenings, so you can choose the fastening specifically for your boots. On the other hand, the situation is also legitimate when it is not the crampons that match the boots, but the boots that match the crampons.
For the 2016 season, Petzl is releasing the Vasak, Sarken and Irvis climbing crampons with a set of interchangeable bindings for use with both welted and non-welted boots. Will appear in AlpIndustry in the near future.
"Soft" and "aggressive" cats
In general, depending on their design, cats can be divided into softer and more aggressive ones. The first ones are intended for mountain tourism, trekking, ski mountaineering and simple mountaineering routes. The second ones are for technical mountaineering, ice climbing and mixed doubles.
The table below shows the main differences between the two model ranges.
|
"Soft" models |
"Aggressive" models |
|
|
Main Application |
Mountain tourism |
Mountaineering and ice climbing |
|
Front and rear design |
Soft, less durable |
Tougher, more durable |
|
Mounting type |
Soft (less often combined) |
Staples or “frog” (less commonly combined) |
|
Fastening properties |
Leaves freedom, fits any boots |
Rigid, no play, more precise fit, suitable for welted shoes |
|
Front teeth |
|
|
|
Front side teeth |
Vertical |
Angled (45 degrees), sharper sharpening |
|
|
||
|
Cats suitable for mountain tourism Simple rectangular front, anti-stick, soft front mount, rear frog mount, 10 teeth, front teeth flat and wide, side front teeth vertical. |
Crampons suitable for classical and technical mountaineering and ice climbing Webbed front (more rigid design), anti-slip, rigid mount with clip at front and frog at rear, 12 teeth, aggressive front teeth with grinds. |
Sports cats for extreme ice climbing and mixed climbing Rigid cast front part, no anti-stick, rigid rear and front fastening under the welt (bracket), one aggressive front tooth with serrations. |
Ultra-light aluminum crampons
In addition to classic steel crampons, aluminum crampons can be found on sale today. Such models are available with both soft and hard fastenings. Due to their minimal weight, these crampons are ideal for ski touring and freeride, as well as simple hikes on glaciers. Options with a hard mount are suitable for a ski boot, with a soft mount for any other shoe. XLC 390 Fast weighing 402 grams.
How to choose the right cats
Before buying crampons, figure out what terrain you will use them on. Will it be a simple snow-ice route, a technical climb or ice-rock sections. It is also important to select and adjust the crampons to the shoes you will be wearing them on.
The article contains general information on the applicability of crampons of different designs to different types of routes. However, this information is not exhaustive. The range of cats today is extremely extensive. Therefore the most correct actions— clearly understand for which routes you need crampons, correctly “marry” crampons with boots and do not disdain the help of a consultant in a specialized store.
If you are choosing crampons to match your boots, it is better to take the shoes with you to the store. And after purchasing, adjust the crampons to specific boots before climbing, so as not to get into an awkward situation on the route, and do not forget to sharpen the teeth before going to the mountains.
See you in the mountains!
Ice Climbing World Cup winner Park Hee Yong on the route. Photo (c) G. Broust (Petzl).
Gear Reviews
Climbing cats are necessary equipment for many varieties mountain species sports such as mountaineering, mountain tourism, ski mountaineering, ice climbing, etc. However, for each specific sport there are special models of cats designed specifically for it. And it is very important to choose the right model that suits your requirements and tasks.
There are two fundamentally different approaches to the choice of climbing cats:
- the first involves first buying boots, and then selecting crampons to match them;
- the second is, on the contrary, buying crampons and only then selecting appropriate shoes.
Both of these approaches have the right to life, but the first one must still be recognized as more correct. Since the primary ones are still the boots. After all, we spend a lot of time in boots, and the success of the entire event depends on their correct selection. Let's assume that you already have boots that suit you in all respects, and you come to the store to choose and buy crampons for these boots. And then you are faced with this a huge amount different types and models of these “animals” that you fall into a slight stupor for a long time :)
Let's figure out what's what...
According to the method of attaching crampons to boots, all crampons can be divided into crampons with soft, hard and semi-rigid (or semi-soft :)) fastenings.
Crampons with soft mounts the most versatile - they can be worn on any boots or even sneakers, if so desired. Soft fastenings most often take the form of plastic brackets that are secured to the boot with a strap. These crampons are represented by Petzl Charlet VASAK FL, IRVIS FL, Grivel G12 New Classic, G10 New Classic, Air Tech New Classic, Black Diamond Contact Strap, CAMP C12 NB, C10 NB, XLC 490, Stalker Newmatic and others.
However, this method of fastening also has its disadvantages. Firstly, crampons with soft fastenings take longer and are more difficult to put on. And if you have to put on crampons somewhere on a pass in severe frost and strong wind, then the speed and ease of putting on crampons plays an important role. Secondly, no matter how carefully you adjust the size of the crampons to the size of the boots, and no matter how tightly you tighten the straps of the fastenings, after some time the fastening still weakens and the crampons begin to dangle a little on the boots. I must say that this does not bring much joy when climbing an ice slope, for example. It also happens that poorly secured crampons fly off your shoes and, as a rule, at the most inopportune moment - and this is not only inconvenient, but also simply extremely life-threatening.
In this plan cats with rigid mounts much more convenient and safe. Such crampons are not worn on any boots, but only on boots that have the so-called. welts in the front and back, to which the crampon fastening elements cling - a bracket in the front and a “frog” in the back. Having adjusted such fastenings once, in the future you will be able to put on your crampons in any situation in a matter of seconds. This type of cat is represented by the Petzl Charlet VASAK LLF, SARKEN SL, M10, IRVIS SL, CAMP XLC 390 Fast, C12 F models.
An intermediate position between cats with soft and hard fastenings is occupied by crampons with semi-rigid mounts. They have a soft front part of the mount, and a hard back part (usually a “frog”). This type is represented by cats Petzl Charlet VASAK LL, IRVIS LL, IRVIS SPL, SARKEN LL, Grivel G14 New Matic, G12 New Matic, G10 New Matic, Air Tech New Matic, Air Tech Light New Matic, CAMP XLC Nanotech, C12 NBF, Stalker Universal.
In addition to the method of attachment to boots, cats also differ in the nature of the connection between the front and back parts. So that crampons can be put on boots of any size, they are made of two parts - the front (under the toe of the boot) and the back (under the heel). According to the method of their connection, cats are semi-rigid and rigid (platform). Some time ago, cats with a soft or articulated joint were also common, but now you will no longer see such cats, so we will not describe them here.
The need to create platform cats appeared in connection with the increase in the technical complexity of ice routes. Previously, in order to climb a steep ice wall, climbers had to cut steps for a long time and tediously. Thanks to the rigid platform crampons, it became possible to navigate steep ice sections on the front teeth. As a rule, platform crampons have vertical front teeth, which makes them more durable, and the rigid platform provides reliable support for the foot. Platform cats also consist of two parts, which slide relative to each other and are fixed with threaded connections. Almost every cat manufacturer has at least one platform cat model in its lineup - for example, Grivel 2F New Matic.
However, rigid platform cats are, after all, single models for a narrow circle of users. The most widely used now semi-rigid cats. In these crampons, the front and back parts are connected to each other by a metal plate with many holes to adjust the crampon to your shoe size (like a regular belt). This design combines convenience soft cats and the stability of hard ones and allows the use of semi-hard crampons both on simple firn slopes and on more complex ice ones. As a rule, on semi-rigid cats the front teeth are located horizontally - precisely because they are designed for very wide application, and it is much easier to move along an ice-snow, snow or firn slope in such crampons, because the vertical front teeth will simply cut through soft ice or firn. The exceptions are the Petzl Charlet M10 and Grivel G14 cats - these models have two front teeth located vertically, in addition, it is possible to replace the two front teeth with one tooth.
Crampon They represent special equipment that is impossible to do without in mountain tourism, mountaineering, ice climbing, ski mountaineering and other types of extreme sports.
Each model has its own unique features and differences that are most effective in a specific sports hobby. That is why it is necessary to purchase climbing crampons taking into account their future functional tasks and requirements.
- How to choose the right one and what types are there?
Before you start choosing a future purchase that will become effective and reliable protection from falling, you need, first of all, to buy boots. And only after this you can begin to select the most suitable model of climbing crampons.
Although some climbers prefer to buy crampons first, and only then go shopping for boots. However, the first option, according to professionals, is more correct, since boots are the key to a successful extreme event.
Types of climbing cats:
- Soft mount models
They are the most versatile, as they are ideal for putting on boots of any type and shape, and, if necessary, can even be put on sneakers. As for fastening, in most cases it is made in the form of special plastic brackets, which are fixed with the foot on the shoe.
But still like that climbing crampons have their own negative sides. Firstly, the process of putting it on takes a lot of time and effort, which is unacceptable, for example, at some pass where there is strong wind and frost.
In such an environment, the ease and speed of putting on crampons can save a person's life. Secondly, the service life of such models is relatively short due to the soft fastening, which begins to stretch over time, therefore, the crampon will simply begin to dangle from the shoe, which is unsafe.
- Rigid mount options
These crampons are safer and more comfortable, but they are not suitable for all types of boots. For them it is necessary to select special shoes, which have the so-called. welts in the front and back. They are used as fasteners to which the crampon's "back frog" and its front brace are attached.
- Models with semi-rigid mounts
Data cats for tourism and mountaineering are a cross between hard and soft views fastenings Their back part is made more rigid, the “frog” is mainly used, while the front part is soft.
In addition to the type of fastening, when choosing a purchase you should also pay attention to the nature of the direct connection between the back and front of the model. To ensure that the climbing crampon can be easily and quickly put on in any conditions, it is made of a front part, which serves as the toe for the shoe, and also a back part, in which the heel of the boot is fixed.
Not so long ago, options with a hinged and soft connection were especially popular, but their popularity did not last long and such models can no longer be found on the shelves of specialized stores. Today, the leader position is occupied by platform-type products, which are indispensable in passing fairly complex ice routes.
In the front of these crampons there are vertical teeth that are capable of providing a strong cut into the ice. Their platform is made quite rigid, which ensures reliable support foot Such models are made of two parts, fixed with high-strength threaded connections.
But it is still worth noting that this option of crampons is intended only for professional climbers who deal with long, complex and very dangerous routes. Another option for climbing crampons are semi-rigid types, which today are more affordable and in demand.
In these models, both parts are connected by a special plate made of metal. They are equipped with a large number of holes designed to adjust them to absolutely any size of boots. The design of such products is characterized by a combination of a high degree of stability, comfort and softness.
Their teeth are in horizontal position, which makes these crampons versatile and suitable for almost any surface, from snow to firn and unsteady ice.
How to properly care?
Climbing crampons can significantly simplify the process of climbing mixed or snowy routes. However, to ensure that they do not lose their structural and functional qualities over time, it is necessary to properly care for them so that they remain in perfect condition.
- Fastenings
Before using the cat for its intended purpose, it is important to check the fastenings. Under no circumstances should they dangle; otherwise, it is better to replace damaged rivets or bolts. You also need to check the condition of the buckles/straps; they should not be worn.
- Teeth
These elements of climbing crampons are a guarantee of safe climbing, so they need to be systematically sharpened. It is imperative to carry out this event just before the hike. To do this, you need to take a hand saw or file, but only a flat one, and sharpen towards the sharp end of the file.
Under no circumstances should you use a sharpening machine, as it can heat the metal surface of the teeth, thereby disrupting their elasticity and hardness. Next you need to sharpen the tip and edges of the teeth, but this must be done very carefully so as not to bend the line running to the tip from the frame. Bent teeth must be straightened.
As for the proper storage of climbing crampons, before putting them in the closet, you need to dry and wipe the products. The thing is that moisture has a detrimental effect on rusting steel, from which most modern models are made. It would also be a good idea to lubricate the metal elements with a small amount of oil. Naturally, cats need to be stored in a dry place.
Transportation rules
Undoubtedly, the sharpened and strong teeth are very effective on thin ice and allow you to move around it without any problems. However, they can also cause harm if they are transported or carried incorrectly, so if the cats are not on their feet, then you can protect yourself and others in two ways:
- use a reinforced special bag made of durable nylon, which is almost impossible to make holes;
- use rubber tips, which are inexpensive and do not take up much space.
To sum it up...
Climbing cats - the best option for lovers of extreme pastimes who want to protect themselves on dangerous routes. In addition, everyone will be able to choose the most suitable model for themselves, which will serve “faithfully” for many years, naturally, subject to proper use and care.
