Today I will talk about the “great and terrible” epidermal growth factor (EGF) - a component anti-aging cosmetics, which is considered one of the most effective and efficient, but at the same time it is also one of the most controversial.
Recently, questions about this component began to appear quite often in the comments, so I decided to write a post about it so as not to repeat myself dozens of times (let me remind you that the post with questions is here - "Question answer" , it is always easy to find in the upper right part of the blog, ask your questions there, and subscribe to comment updates if you want to see new questions and answers).
What is this?Epidermal growth factor or in general growth factors (EGF, Epidermal Growth Factor, HGF, TGF, etc.) are special polypeptides that stimulate skin growth at the cellular level, that is, they regulate cell growth and division. Growth factors are in human body, and in a hundred various forms, they control more than three hundred types of cells in our body, are responsible for their division, for the healing of the skin (for example, in saliva they are responsible for the healing minor damage in the stomach), for bone growth, etc. The Nobel Prize was awarded for the discovery of growth factors ( link ).
Previously, it was extremely difficult to identify growth factors, which is why they were prohibitively expensive - their cost reached several million dollars, but at the beginning of the 21st century, with the help of new technologies and genetic engineering their production has become much easier, now these components have become more accessible, they are also synthesized, and, as expected, they have begun to be added to cosmetic preparations. But in any case, these are still expensive components, so really working growth factors can only be found in fairly expensive cosmetics, but the dominance of inexpensive Asian creams with EGF makes you smile - you shouldn’t hope that such cosmetics will have an effect at the cellular level, rather, in such products only the name comes from it :).
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What do cosmetics with them give: With age, the body's natural production of growth factors slows down, due to which the skin becomes thinner and its tone decreases, so the use of cosmetics containing them seems to be more than justified. As I noted above, growth factors stimulate cell division, renew the skin, enhance the synthesis of collagen and elastin (especially transforming growth factor - TGF), increase density and elasticity, promote skin rejuvenation at the cellular level, and also accelerate the healing of burns, wounds and skin lesions. damage.
And everything seems fine: and we have learned to isolate them, and their effectiveness has been proven, but what’s wrong? All varieties of GF have disadvantages, one of which is extremely serious, more about it below.
Minuses:~ suggest that when exposed to growth factors, the growth of not only healthy cells is stimulated, but... also cancerous ones. In particular, in cosmetic products it can accelerate division bad cells skin, thereby stimulating the development of skin cancer. Here, as they say, no comments;
~ transforming growth factor (TGF) stimulates collagen production so intensely and excessively that it can promote scarring (so everything is good in moderation and this does not only apply to growth factors: using a few or too many strong products with active collagen stimulants does not always work for the benefit - and this is active agents with vitamin C, and retinol products, and products with specific peptide complexes, so it’s not only with growth factors that you should be careful).
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How to find these components in cosmetics? Here is the name and synonyms that can be used to designate growth factors in cosmetic products: EGF, Epidermal Growth Factor, Human Epidermal Growth Factor (hEGF), HGF, Human Epidermal Growth Factor, rh-Oligopeptide-1 (there may be different numbers here), sh -Oligopeptide-1,sh-Polypeptide-1, rh-Polypeptide-1, transforming growth factor TGF.
Conclusion: I choose cosmetics for myself WITHOUT this component (and I don’t plan to try it in the future), but in general everyone decides for themselves what to use. The only thing that can be reassuring and pleasing is, as I wrote at the beginning, that in most inexpensive cosmetic products EGF or other growth factors are indicated only on the label, but in reality they do not have an effect on cells. Although, who knows, maybe the same Koreans have now learned how to make it for pennies, they can...
And be healthy!
Many questions arise about growth factors: why are growth factors needed in skin rejuvenation creams, shampoo, and eyelash conditioner? Let's try to clarify this point, since changes in popular beauty products arouse constant interest among consumers. It turns out that there are dozens of growth factors, and they are still being discovered. According to biologists, the growth factor marked the beginning of a new round in the development of cell biology and significantly changed views on the processes occurring in living organisms.
Growth factor - a mysterious ingredient in cosmetology
The discovery of a substance called growth factor was made by biologists Stanley Cohen and Rita Levi-Montalcini in the middle of the last century. Nerve endings begin to grow in living cells, developing well in any organ and even in a cancer tumor. It was this “tumor extract” that was called a growth factor – NGF (nerve growth factor). Discoveries, meanwhile, continue to this day.
Any growth factors regulate the multiplication of cells, select their purpose, and allow organs and tissues to function properly. Today it is known that growth factors are produced by all living cells: the epidermis produces keratinocytes, dermis cells produce fibroblasts, and pigmentation cells produce melanocytes.
Absolutely all growth factors activate processes to restore elasticity and density skin. They work on the principle of a chain reaction and do not work alone. That is why cosmetologists advise using the entire complex to achieve and maintain a long-term effect of skin rejuvenation.
As a rule, these are additional, but not less important means for skin:
- moisturizing components of the cream;
- nourishing oils;
- cleansing serums;
- elasticity-restoring collagen cells, etc.
Growth factors and their effect on body rejuvenation
The most important feature of the influence of growth factors cosmetics is that they influence both external and internal processes rejuvenation of the body. At a deeper level, the same important processes occur as on the surface.
Based on the recommendations for the use of anti-aging creams, you can select the required amount of growth factors to achieve the best results. The older we become, the more hidden processes occur with our skin and the body as a whole. Labels often indicate the age category of the consumer for whom the product is suitable - this minimizes consumer stress during the selection process. A properly selected cream or cosmetic product will achieve positive results:
- reduce wrinkles;
- reduce skin pigmentation;
- pause or stop collagen loss;
- protect from solar activity (UV filters);
- provide skin hydration and nutrition;
- stop the thinning of the dermis;
- reduce loss of elasticity;
- tighten skin pores;
- even out complexion.
Popular growth factors in cosmetology: EGF, VEGF and HGF
It is worth remembering that a popular remedy will not solve all your problems if you make the wrong choice. On the labels, the composition of the product is indicated in small print, but the question, meanwhile, is important.
Below are some of the most popular ingredients that may be found in mature skin care products.
- Epidermal growth factor (EGF) – enhances the synthesis of substances, called the “beauty factor”.
- Transforming – enhances collagen production (TGF-b1, -b2, -b3).
- Keratinocyte – triggers epidermal cell division (KGF).
- Insulin-like – division and growth of skin cells (IGF1).
- Hepatocyte growth factor (HGF).
- Vascular (VEGF) – accelerates the formation of blood vessels (fights hair loss).
For the best results, use product samples, then you definitely won’t go wrong when choosing the best skin care option for yourself.
The benefits and harms of anti-aging products with growth factors
So, the remedy has been chosen, and you have begun the rejuvenation procedures. Are there any general recommendations in the use of anti-aging new products? It turns out there is! Experts do not recommend daily use of cosmetics with growth factors! It is suggested to use them only absolutely healthy people and no more than a couple of times a week, leaving the usual caring cream, milk or water for care on the remaining days.
At complex application Anti-aging products with growth factors are strongly recommended not to extend the time of use, and to take long (several months) breaks between their use. It is obvious that growth factors can bring both benefit and harm. The difference is how often you intend to use them: 2 courses per year, or once a week all year.
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Mysterious growth factors have become one of the most popular ingredients in cosmetology for last years. Any mention of them - “cream with growth factor”, “gel for eyelashes with growth factor” - makes the product more popular, according to marketers. However, not only potential buyers of cosmetics, but also many cosmetologists do not understand very well what these factors are and what they can increase. And most importantly, why is this good?
The first substance called growth factor was discovered by biologists Stanley Cohen and Rita Levi-Montalcini in 1952. After transplanting an extra limb into a chicken embryo, they discovered that the embryo developed extra nerve endings around the graft. Then they transplanted mouse tumor cells into the same unfortunate embryo, and sensitive nerve endings appeared in the tumor! The extract isolated from the tumor was called a growth factor: NGF (nerve growth factor) - nerve tissue growth factor. In 1959, another nerve growth factor was isolated from snake venom, and in 1962, the first epidermal growth factor was discovered - it was found in the submandibular gland of a mouse. The researchers even got Nobel Prize for his find, although only in 1986. Dozens are open today various factors growth, and their number continues to increase. Biologists believe that growth factors started new era in cell biology and significantly changed views on the processes occurring in the human and animal bodies.
If we describe the mechanism of action of growth factors as simply as possible, we can say that they regulate the growth and reproduction of cells, their differentiation (the transformation of unspecialized cells into specialized ones), and maintain the healthy state and functioning of all organs and tissues.
As it turned out, any cell in the body produces certain growth factors. For example, epidermal cells (keratinocytes), dermal cells (fibroblasts), and pigment cells (melanocytes) secrete and respond to various factors. All growth factors activate biochemical processes aimed at restoring and regenerating the skin, increasing the volume of synthesis of collagen and elastin fibers, which helps restore skin elasticity and density.
Various factors interact with each other, being synergists, that is, friendly to each other. Increasing the activity of one factor stimulates the activity of another, and so on, along the chain. But not a single factor in isolation can create the effect of true skin rejuvenation - they only activate biochemical reactions; In order for them to be fully realized, preserved skin reserves are necessary. Therefore, the use of drugs with growth factors does not exclude the use of nutritional, moisturizing and other agents.
Any cosmetic product that contains one or more growth factors can be considered cosmeceutical, that is, not only improving appearance skin, but also affecting its deeper structures.
An important feature of growth factors is that they interfere with the processes of “internal aging”, along with “external” ones. In recent years, quite a lot of research has been carried out confirming that cosmetics containing one or more growth factors, the amount of which corresponds physiological characteristics skin, can reduce the manifestations of aging, slow down and even partially reverse the processes of external and internal aging. It is believed that by using growth factors it is possible to change the "hardwired tendency" of cells to stop reproducing or dividing; reduce the loss of skin collagen (normally, every year of life after 25 years we lose about one percent of collagen); slow down the thinning of the dermis; reduce damage to elastin. External aging involves changes that occur as a result of exposure to ultraviolet radiation, smoking, etc. Growth factors can restore damaged blood vessels, reduce dry skin, tighten pores and even out complexion.
Until the age of 25, our skin has enough of its own growth factors, but then their quantity and activity decrease every year. The use of growth factor products, theoretically, helps compensate for age-related deficits.
Many growth factors are used in cosmetology, the most popular of which is probably epidermal growth factor (EGF).
In addition to this, you can find the following ingredients on the label of creams for aging skin:
Transforming growth factor (TGF-b1, -b2, -b3);
- vascular growth factor (VEGF);
- hepatocyte growth factor (HGF);
- keratinocyte growth factor (KGF);
- fibroblast growth factor (bFGF);
- insulin-like growth factor (IGF1);
- platelet-derived growth factor (PDGF-AA).
Transforming growth factor enhances the synthesis of new collagen, keratinocyte accelerates the division of epidermal cells, insulin-like and platelet-like regulate and accelerate the growth and division of skin cells. Hepatocyte and vascular growth factors stimulate the growth of new blood vessels in the skin. It should be noted that the growth of new blood vessels can lead to increased sensitivity, so drugs containing VEGF and HGF should not be used for sensitive, irritated and damaged skin. However, these growth factors are used successfully in the treatment of baldness and other hair-related problems. Fibroblast growth factor is used to stimulate the growth of eyelashes: it is part of most famous products with which you can quickly achieve “fan” eyelashes.
Epidermal growth factor has sufficient wide range effects: it stimulates cell growth and division, renewal of the epidermis. When using products containing EGF, there is a gradual increase in the synthesis of DNA, RNA, hyaluronic acid, collagen, elastin. As a result, they can quickly improve the appearance of aging skin. Epidermal growth factor is even called beauty factor.
All growth factors are small in size and have a fairly low molecular weight: for example, EGF has an atomic mass of about 6,200 daltons and consists of 53 amino acids. That is, he is capable quite easily
penetrate the skin, breaking its protective barrier. For faster delivery of growth factors, transport systems (nanosomes, liposomes, etc.) can also be used.
In fact, main question regarding the use of growth factors in cosmetology: how safe is it? The fact is that growth factors can play not only “ good role"(in particular, when produced by the body during injury and promote healing).
On the labelsgrowth factors, according toINCI, are designated as follows:
rh-Oligopeptide-1,
sh-Oligopeptide-2,
sh-Polypeptide-1,
rh-Polypeptide-3,
sh-Polypeptide-9,
sh-Polypeptide-10,
sh-Polypeptide-11,
sh-Polypeptide-19, etc.
Othertitles:
E.G.F.
FGF-7
KGF-1
heparin-binding growth factor 7 (HBGF-7),
VEGF, FGF,
I.G.F.
TGF et al.
An increase in the number of growth factors is observed in many types of tumors, and their number can also increase with autoimmune diseases: for example, when rheumatoid arthritis high concentrations of VEGF are found in joints and skin.
Some researchers believe that the constant use of cosmetics containing growth factors can trigger the development of tumors or other health problems. In addition, a possible increase in the risk of severe scarring and even the development of keloids at the site of injury and damage is associated with the use of TGF. The use of products to stimulate eyelash growth has also given rise to debate: ophthalmologists believe that they can cause eye inflammation. There is also no complete confidence that growth factors actually penetrate into the deep layers of the skin and can seriously affect the aging process.
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In general, the official position regarding the use of growth factors in cosmetology can be formulated as follows:
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The body's ability to heal itself is amazing. Scientists have been studying the mechanisms of this phenomenon for decades, and in 1986, Stanley Cohen and Rita Levi-Montalcini recreated epidermal growth factor. They were able to understand how cells communicate with each other during their development and growth. This has forever changed the approach to skin rejuvenation.
What it is
Growth factors are a group of small proteins that regulate cell growth, development and activation. These are army commanders who issue commands; they can trigger entire cascades of reactions, changing the functioning of cells and regulating the functioning of certain genes.
There is already evidence that the signs of skin aging can be significantly reduced by using a balanced mixture of growth factors, because regenerative functions fade with age. Cosmetic growth factors are obtained from the simplest bacterium - coli E. coli.
How it works
The starting point was the study of the mechanism of wound healing. Studies have shown that a mixture of epidermal growth factor, fibroblast growth factor, transforming growth factor beta and platelet-derived growth factor significantly reduces healing time without the formation of dense scar tissue. Moreover, each of the “commanders” is responsible for a specific area. It is important to understand that growth factors do not work alone, this is an army where everyone clearly knows their responsibilities.
It is worth recalling that inflammatory reaction occurs in the skin almost constantly, it is provoked and psychological stress, and UV radiation, and poor nutrition. That is, recovery is required not only for cuts and abrasions.
What to look for on the label
The most common growth factors found in cosmetics are those that stimulate proliferation, i.e., cell division. As a rule, these are complex names, and often even a letter code, but if you decipher the names, it is usually clear what they are for in a cosmetic product.
Epidermal growth factor. On the label it looks like RH-oligopeptide 1 or EGF. It increases the number of stem cells in the skin, causing them to divide, promotes fast healing and stimulates collagen synthesis. Its area of application is restorative products after acid peels or microdermabrasion.
All living things are made of proteins.
Proteins, in turn, are made up of chains of amino acids.
The sequence of amino acids in the chain determines the structure and function of the protein molecule.
The variety of protein types determines the variety of their functions in the body.
- Catalytic function is the acceleration of various chemical reactions.
- Structural function - structural proteins give shape to cells and many structural components cells.
- Protective function.
- Motor function.
- Transport function.
- Receptor function.
- Signal function.
The signaling function is one of the most important and currently being studied. It lies in the ability of a protein to participate in the transmission of signals between cells, tissues and organs, to serve as a kind of instructor-conductor of the necessary information.
Features of growth factors
The signaling function is performed by proteins hormones, cytokines and growth factors. Cells interact with each other using signaling proteins transmitted through intercellular substance. These proteins include cytokines and growth factors. Growth factors are major protein molecules, consisting of 100 or more amino acids, produced by the body itself. They are able to control and manage cell division, differentiation and death.
As the body ages, the synthesis of growth factors slows down and their functional activity decreases.
Pros of growth factors:- Selectivity (selectivity). They interact only with healthy cells, with an unchanged receptor apparatus.
- They are not able to stimulate an unlimited number of cell divisions. (Hayflick limit).
- There is no withdrawal syndrome.
- Species specific.
- Large molecule size (limiting their number in the drug).
- Protein load on the body when using them.
- Expensive synthesis method.
- Short-lived molecules. On average, from synthesis to decay takes from 30 to 60 minutes. Rarely before 4 hours.
Due to the above disadvantages and little knowledge of the effects on the body, the use of growth factors such as growth hormone (hGH), insulin-like growth factors (for example, IGF-1), mechanical growth factors (MGFs); platelet-derived growth factor (PDGF), fibroblast growth factors (MGFs), vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), hepatocyte growth factor (HGF), in the composition of cosmetics is quite controversial.
Peptides in cosmetology
This was to a large extent the impetus for the active use of peptides in cosmetology, especially since peptides have a number of advantages over growth factors.
The term "peptide" was proposed by E. Fischer in 1900, and in 1905 he proposed a method for synthesizing the peptide in the laboratory.
Peptides are molecules consisting of short chains of amino acids. Conventionally, they can be divided into oligopeptides - molecules containing up to ten amino acid residues, and polypeptides - molecules containing more than ten amino acids.
Peptides in structure repeat only part of the growth factor, namely its active center, which interacts directly with the cell receptor, transmitting a signal to it for action. Due to their small size, their possible concentration in the preparation is significantly higher than that of growth factors.
Peptides are able to modify cell division and differentiation towards normalization: reduce when increased and stimulate when reduced level proliferation.
Also, peptides are able to act on the receptors of target cells for a longer period of time due to their larger quantity in the preparation, and the effect itself is more targeted due to the simplicity of the molecule. They are not able to penetrate into the general bloodstream due to barrier function basement membrane, which means they do not have a systemic effect and are not capable of causing an allergic reaction.
Synthesizing a peptide in a laboratory setting can take years, but despite this, it is cheaper to synthesize the peptide than using its natural counterparts.
Peptides are widely used in medicine ( medications), in agriculture (feed, plant protection products), sports (preparations for accelerated recovery after injury and increasing tolerance physical activity) and, of course, in cosmetology.
Most often, peptides are included in injectable drugs, including cocktails for mesotherapy, biorevitalizants and even some fillers, the effectiveness and bioavailability of which is much higher than that of products for cutaneous application. Despite this, peptides are often added to face and body skin care products (creams, serums) and hair loss medications (shampoos, balms).
The following groups of peptides are most often used in cosmetology:
- Dermal reconstructors:
- Matrixyl (palmitoyl pentapeptide-4) activates the synthesis of collagen, skin mucopolysaccharides, fibroblasts, stimulates restoration and regeneration connective tissue And vascular wall, helps to increase tone, increase skin elasticity and disappearance of deep wrinkles.
- Decapeptide – 4 increases skin elasticity due to the synthesis of collagen, elastin and other components of the extracellular matrix, actively influences the formation of new cells, thereby reducing wrinkles and has a wound healing and restorative effect.
- Acetyl decapeptide – 3 reduces wrinkles due to the formation of new cells, increases skin elasticity due to the synthesis of elastin and collagen.
- Oligopeptide – 24 reduces wrinkles and reduces scars on the skin due to the formation of new cells, increasing the level of keratinocytes and fibroblasts, the synthesis of hyaluronic acid and elastin
- Copper tripeptide - 1, or copper peptide, protects the skin from photoaging, restores angiogenesis.
- Tripeptide – 6 stimulates antioxidant protection.
- Thioredoxin participates in many biological connections, signal transmission and is a key component in the antioxidant defense system of cells, reduces the number of free radicals, protects the fibroblast genome from external influences and genetic mutations.
- Peptides with botulinum-like effect (neurotransmitter - regulatory peptides):
Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-3(8)) reduces the activity of the neurotransmitter that causes nerve impulses, prevents tension facial muscles, reduces expression wrinkles. In its action, argireline is comparable to botulinum toxin A, but does not cause muscle paralysis.
- Melanostatin (aqua-dextran-nonapeptide-1) reduces the activity of alpha melanocytes (cells that produce melanin), prevents the activation of the melanin production process.
- Pentapeptide – 13 blocks the MC1R receptor and prevents alpha - melanostimulating hormone (α - MSH) from contacting it. Thus, signal transmission to the melanosome is blocked, and melanin formation is reduced.
- Oligopeptide – 34(50) reduces the expression of melanocyte-stimulating factor (MITF) and inhibits the binding of melanosomes to keratinocytes, suppresses tyrosinase activity by blocking the activity of tyrosinase-binding proteins. This leads to a decrease in melanocyte proliferation.
- Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3 - part of immunoglobulin G- has a pronounced anti-inflammatory effect, strengthens the immune system, moisturizes, tightens and improves skin elasticity. Also activates the restoration of connective tissue.
- Soy Peptide (REGU - AGE®) improves blood microcirculation, reduces collagen breakdown, reduces the presence of free radicals, restores skin elasticity, enhances lymphatic drainage.
It is obvious that not only the wonderful present, but also the future of cosmetology is associated with synthetic peptides.
Simplicity of structure, small size, effectiveness due to the identity of human peptides, the absence of withdrawal syndrome and uncontrolled stimulation - these are just some of the unique properties of peptides, which in the skillful hands of cosmetologists can become indispensable tools in solving many, many aesthetic problems!
Many questions arise about growth factors: why are growth factors needed in skin rejuvenation creams, shampoo, and eyelash conditioner? Let's try to clarify this point, since changes in popular beauty products arouse constant interest among consumers. It turns out that there are dozens of growth factors, and they are still being discovered. According to biologists, the growth factor marked the beginning of a new round in the development of cell biology and significantly changed views on the processes occurring in living organisms.
Growth factor - a mysterious ingredient in cosmetology
The discovery of a substance called growth factor was made by biologists Stanley Cohen and Rita Levi-Montalcini in the middle of the last century. Nerve endings begin to grow in living cells, developing well in any organ and even in a cancer tumor. It was this “tumor extract” that was called a growth factor - NGF (nerve growth factor). Discoveries, meanwhile, continue to this day.
Any growth factors regulate the multiplication of cells, select their purpose, and allow organs and tissues to function properly. Today it is known that growth factors are produced by all living cells: the epidermis produces keratinocytes, dermis cells produce fibroblasts, and pigmentation cells produce melanocytes.
Absolutely all growth factors activate processes to restore the elasticity and density of the skin. They work on the principle of a chain reaction and do not work alone. That is why cosmetologists advise using the entire complex to achieve and maintain a long-term effect of skin rejuvenation.
As a rule, these are additional, but no less important skin products:
- moisturizing components of the cream;
- nourishing oils;
- cleansing serums;
- elasticity-restoring collagen cells, etc.
Growth factors and their effect on body rejuvenation
The most important feature of the influence of growth factors of cosmetics is that they affect both external and internal processes of rejuvenation of the body. At a deeper level, the same important processes occur as on the surface.
Based on the recommendations for the use of anti-aging creams, you can select the required amount of growth factors to achieve the best results. The older we become, the more hidden processes occur with our skin and the body as a whole. Labels often indicate the age category of the consumer for whom the product is suitable - this minimizes consumer stress during selection. A properly selected cream or cosmetic product will achieve positive results:
- reduce wrinkles;
- reduce skin pigmentation;
- pause or stop collagen loss;
- protect from solar activity (UV filters);
- provide skin hydration and nutrition;
- stop the thinning of the dermis;
- reduce loss of elasticity;
- tighten skin pores;
- even out complexion.
Popular growth factors in cosmetology: EGF, VEGF and HGF
It is worth remembering that a popular remedy will not solve all your problems if you make the wrong choice. On the labels, the composition of the product is indicated in small print, but the question, meanwhile, is important.
Below are some of the most popular ingredients that may be found in mature skin care products.
- Epidermal growth factor (EGF) - enhances the synthesis of substances, called the “beauty factor”.
- Transforming - enhances collagen production (TGF-b1, -b2, -b3).
- Keratinocyte - triggers epidermal cell division (KGF).
- Insulin-like - division and growth of skin cells (IGF1).
- Hepatocyte growth factor (HGF).
- Vascular (VEGF) - accelerates the formation of blood vessels (fights hair loss).
For the best results, use product samples, then you definitely won’t go wrong when choosing the best skin care option for yourself.
The benefits and harms of anti-aging products with growth factors
So, the remedy has been chosen, and you have begun the rejuvenation procedures. Are there any general recommendations for the use of anti-aging new products? It turns out there is!
Experts do not recommend daily use of cosmetics with growth factors! They are suggested to be used only by absolutely healthy people and no more than a couple of times a week, leaving the usual caring cream, milk or water for care on other days.
When using anti-aging agents with growth factors in combination, it is strongly recommended not to extend the time of use and to take long (several months) breaks between their use. It is obvious that growth factors can bring both benefit and harm. The difference is how often you intend to use them: 2 courses per year, or once a week all year.
For the second year now, while flipping through an in-flight duty-free magazine on a plane, I came across the miracle serum Bioeffect EGF Serum from a small Icelandic brand, which “conquered all countries” and hurray, has finally come to Russia! What is her anti-aging secret? In epidermal growth factor!
According to national studies, EGF Serum is used by almost a quarter of women in Iceland (would love to see that!).
It has only nine components and does everything it needs to do - rejuvenates all skin types, reduces pigmentation and improves skin texture. They say it boosts collagen production on a cosmic scale! And all this thanks to barley, its genes are reprogrammed so that they produce epidermal growth factors - they accelerate cell division at the level of young skin.
The newest cosmetic product Bioeffect EGF Serum, developed by the Icelandic group of scientists at Bioeffect, is an innovative skin care product. The serum is a cellular activator that enhances the processes of natural skin rejuvenation.
However, the serum is not new at all, it appeared in 2011 and during this time it never became mega-popular. And it came to Russia now, on the wave of popularity of growth factors, which covered Japanese and Korean cosmetics. A little more, and we will call it a safe alternative to Botox and sing songs of delight))
Composition of Bioeffect EGF Serum
Let's look at the composition of the serum to find out what to thank for this anti-aging product that can rejuvenate the skin so quickly. In composition, this is a hyaluronic serum, designed to penetrate the skin as much as possible. main component sh-Oligopeptide-1.
Serum composition: Glycerine, Aqua, Sodium Hyalunorate, Tromethamine, Alcohol, Calcium Chloride, Sodium Chloride, Hordeum Vulgare Seed Extract, EGF (Transgenic Barley sh-Oligopeptide-1)
The key component of the serum is Epidermal Growth Factor, which, according to the manufacturer, rejuvenates the skin within two weeks and stimulates its cells to regenerate. This ingredient is safe and consists of plant materials, which are similar in composition to human cell growth activators.
What is EGF, which in this serum is listed in the ingredients as sh-Oligopeptide-1 (transgenic barley growth factor) and is considered “absolutely safe”?
Alas, if it were so safe, we would see a ton of research on its safety, and research on EGF has slowed down... because this ingredient is extremely controversial!
Growth factors are usually produced from bacteria, but in this serum it is a component of genetic engineering(copies of the human gene are implanted into the DNA of barley), and it does not matter how it is produced - from transgenic barley or by biosynthesis in the laboratory, It works the same on the skin!
I have long wanted to write a post about growth factors in cosmetics, especially since they can already be seen in many products, including creams and mesotherapy solutions. And since I myself use cream with growth factor activators from time to time, I have something to write about this too))
How does Bioeffect EGF Serum work?
To put it very briefly, growth factors are a separate large group peptide proteins. They can penetrate deeply into the skin, especially in liposomes and aqueous liquid solutions(serums). EGFs accelerate the division of fibroblasts and stimulate their growth, cause increased collagen production, improving skin structure and complexion. They rejuvenate the skin.
And growth factors really improve the relief and straighten small wrinkles from the inside, this is a visible effect, but it continues during use of the product and a little after. EGF creates the effect of swollen skin and wrinkles are visually smoothed, the skin renews itself faster, becomes brighter and looks younger.
EGF (epidermal growth factors) in cosmetics, pros and cons
But miracles don’t just happen! EGF growth factors are a double-edged sword, and in addition to the visible effect, they also have disadvantages that you need to be aware of. This is important to understand and will not be written about this on a box of growth factor cream or a bottle of mesotherapy solution.
There are definitely advantages - they improve the condition of the skin so that one fine morning you can say: this is magical! My skin is fuller and plumper like it was a few years ago))
But EGF growth factors also have serious disadvantages!
Growth factors stimulate cells and fibroblasts. This is why they are contraindicated for people suffering from psoriasis, as they cause an erroneous signal in the body to overproduce new skin cells, and you will simply stimulate it. But it is not life-threatening.
Much more worrying is that EGF is not recognized as a carcinogenic, but a mitogenic component, that is, influencing cancer cells . Growth factors themselves do not cause cancer, but they cause cancer cells to multiply rapidly if they are already present in the body. This is the job of growth factors - stimulating cells. And these are scientifically proven facts.
Growth factors are not smart enough to differentiate between fibroblasts and cancer cells.
This is the main problem. How do you know that a mole on your face may be precancerous?
Skin cancer is now one of the most frequent illnesses, it is not diagnosed on early stages, and if this process is already established at a minimal (undetected) stage, then the process of cancer development is significantly accelerated. If you have heredity, or sun abuse, or are over 40 years old, or have moles on your skin, then this is a reason to think about it. EGF causes cancer cells in the body to rapidly divide.
EGF Serum and its analogues from other brands
I became interested in EGF factors even before I read all the opinions of experts about growth factors in cosmetics. I wanted to try it myself and I chose the Revive brand as the only one that, having been the first to use growth factors in cosmetics, now uses Oligopeptide-24, an active as an enhancer (activator) of cell growth factor.
But EGF can also be found in other brands, especially since such cosmetics are becoming more and more popular. This is to choose analogues of EGF Serum, you can find them at Obagi and Christina (Israel).
There are many analogues of EGF Bioeffect Serum, this is not unique remedy and the net asset costs are not exorbitant prices!
It is important to understand that all growth factors are produced by several companies, and cosmetic brands simply buy this active ingredient and added to cosmetics. But why haven’t the world’s leading concerns yet released cosmetics with growth factors?
Interestingly, Korean brands that produce miraculous “cosmetics with snails” also add growth factors to the composition, and it is clear that it is they that act and not the mysterious snails))
MyChelle Dermaceuticals has also included EGF in two of its skin renewal and repair creams, these growth factors also quickly heal damage, again by accelerating cell division. These creams are here and here, whether you try them or not is up to you.
The most important thing here is to use the principle of safety - than fewer topics better.
EGF growth factors work in minimum concentration from 0.1%, but it seems to me personally, it is better not to use them deep into the skin, that is, not to inject them, not to roll them with mesoscooters, and instead of serums, choose cream bases that make it difficult for growth factors to penetrate into the deep layers of the skin, thereby reducing their activity.
What do you think about EGF growth factors in cosmetics? Now they are used more and more often, sometimes disguising mesotherapy preparations as a safe cocktail of peptides and vitamins.
Mysterious growth factors have become one of the most popular ingredients in cosmetology in recent years. Any mention of them - “cream with growth factor”, “gel for eyelashes with growth factor” - makes the product more popular, according to marketers. However, not only potential buyers of cosmetics, but also many cosmetologists do not understand very well what these factors are and what they can increase. And most importantly, why is this good?
The first substance called growth factor was discovered by biologists Stanley Cohen and Rita Levi-Montalcini in 1952. After transplanting an extra limb into a chicken embryo, they discovered that the embryo developed extra nerve endings around the graft. Then they transplanted mouse tumor cells into the same unfortunate embryo, and sensitive nerve endings appeared in the tumor! The extract isolated from the tumor was called a growth factor: NGF (nerve growth factor) - nerve tissue growth factor. In 1959, another nerve growth factor was isolated from snake venom, and in 1962, the first epidermal growth factor was discovered - it was found in the submandibular gland of a mouse. The researchers even received a Nobel Prize for their discovery, although only in 1986. Today, dozens of different growth factors have been discovered, and their number continues to increase. Biologists believe that growth factors marked the beginning of a new era in cell biology and significantly changed views on the processes occurring in the human and animal bodies.
If we describe the mechanism of action of growth factors as simply as possible, we can say that they regulate the growth and reproduction of cells, their differentiation (the transformation of unspecialized cells into specialized ones), and maintain the healthy state and functioning of all organs and tissues.
As it turned out, any cell in the body produces certain growth factors. For example, epidermal cells (keratinocytes), dermal cells (fibroblasts) and pigment cells (melanocytes) secrete and respond to different factors. All growth factors activate biochemical processes aimed at restoring and regenerating the skin, increasing the volume of synthesis of collagen and elastin fibers, which helps restore skin elasticity and density.
Various factors interact with each other, being synergists, that is, friendly to each other. Increasing the activity of one factor stimulates the activity of another, and so on, along the chain. But not a single factor in isolation can create the effect of true skin rejuvenation - they only activate biochemical reactions; In order for them to be fully realized, preserved skin reserves are necessary. Therefore, the use of drugs with growth factors does not exclude the use of nutritional, moisturizing and other agents.
Any cosmetic product that contains one or more growth factors can be considered cosmeceutical, that is, it not only improves the appearance of the skin, but also affects its deeper structures.
An important feature of growth factors is that they interfere with the processes of “internal aging”, along with “external” ones. In recent years, quite a lot of research has been carried out confirming that cosmetics containing one or more growth factors, the amount of which corresponds to the physiological characteristics of the skin, can reduce the signs of aging, slow down and even partially reverse the processes of external and internal aging. It is believed that by using growth factors it is possible to change the "hardwired tendency" of cells to stop reproducing or dividing; reduce the loss of skin collagen (normally, every year of life after 25 years we lose about one percent of collagen); slow down the thinning of the dermis; reduce damage to elastin. External aging involves changes that occur as a result of exposure to ultraviolet radiation, smoking, etc. Growth factors can restore damaged blood vessels, reduce dry skin, tighten pores and even out complexion.
Until the age of 25, our skin has enough of its own growth factors, but then their quantity and activity decrease every year. The use of growth factor products, theoretically, helps compensate for age-related deficits.
Many growth factors are used in cosmetology, the most popular of which is probably epidermal growth factor (EGF).
In addition to this, you can find the following ingredients on the label of creams for aging skin:
Transforming growth factor (TGF-b1, -b2, -b3);
- vascular growth factor (VEGF);
- hepatocyte growth factor (HGF);
- keratinocyte growth factor (KGF);
- fibroblast growth factor (bFGF);
- insulin-like growth factor (IGF1);
- platelet-derived growth factor (PDGF-AA).
Transforming growth factor enhances the synthesis of new collagen, keratinocyte accelerates the division of epidermal cells, insulin-like and platelet-like regulate and accelerate the growth and division of skin cells. Hepatocyte and vascular growth factors stimulate the growth of new blood vessels in the skin. It should be noted that the growth of new blood vessels can lead to increased sensitivity, so drugs containing VEGF and HGF should not be used for sensitive, irritated and damaged skin. However, these growth factors are used successfully in the treatment of baldness and other hair-related problems. Fibroblast growth factor is used to stimulate the growth of eyelashes: it is part of most famous products with which you can quickly achieve “fan” eyelashes.
Epidermal growth factor has a fairly wide range of effects: it stimulates cell growth and division, and renewal of the epidermis. When using products containing EGF, there is a gradual increase in the synthesis of DNA, RNA, hyaluronic acid, collagen, and elastin. As a result, they can quickly improve the appearance of aging skin. Epidermal growth factor is even called beauty factor.
All growth factors are small in size and have a fairly low molecular weight: for example, EGF has an atomic mass of about 6,200 daltons and consists of 53 amino acids. That is, he is capable quite easily
penetrate the skin, breaking its protective barrier. For faster delivery of growth factors, transport systems (nanosomes, liposomes, etc.) can also be used.
In essence, the main question regarding the use of growth factors in cosmetology is: how safe is it? The fact is that growth factors can play not only a “good role” (in particular, when they are produced by the body during injuries and promote healing).
On the labelsgrowth factors, according toINCI, are designated as follows:
rh-Oligopeptide-1,
sh-Oligopeptide-2,
sh-Polypeptide-1,
rh-Polypeptide-3,
sh-Polypeptide-9,
sh-Polypeptide-10,
sh-Polypeptide-11,
sh-Polypeptide-19, etc.
Othertitles:
E.G.F.
FGF-7
KGF-1
heparin-binding growth factor 7 (HBGF-7),
VEGF, FGF,
I.G.F.
TGF et al.
An increase in the amount of growth factors is observed in many types of tumors, and their amount can also increase in autoimmune diseases: for example, in rheumatoid arthritis, high concentrations of VEGF are found in the joints and skin.
Some researchers believe that the constant use of cosmetics containing growth factors can trigger the development of tumors or other health problems. In addition, a possible increase in the risk of severe scarring and even the development of keloids at the site of injury and damage is associated with the use of TGF. The use of products to stimulate eyelash growth has also given rise to debate: ophthalmologists believe that they can cause eye inflammation. There is also no complete confidence that growth factors actually penetrate into the deep layers of the skin and can seriously affect the aging process.
In general, the official position regarding the use of growth factors in cosmetology can be formulated as follows:
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