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Introduction
1.1 Dog training. Basic provisions
2.1 Training techniques
2.5 Boarding the dog
2.8 Laying down the dog
2.9 Standing in place
2.10 Return to place
2.13 Overcoming obstacles
Conclusion
Bibliography
Introduction
training dog trainer preparation
The dog is the first domestic animal domesticated by man. Man has long appreciated the useful qualities of a dog: a keen sense of smell, keen hearing, good vision, fast running, endurance and unpretentiousness. Over thousands of years of systematic selection and targeted influence, the dog has developed a pronounced attachment to its owner and amenability to training.
All breeds of dogs, and there are more than four hundred of them, can be divided into four types according to their purpose and methods of use: service, hunting, indoor-decorative and laboratory-experimental. The scientific basis for dog training is the teaching of Academician I. P. Pavlov and his followers about higher nervous activity, which constitutes the main content of the theory of training all types of dogs (1).
During the training process, the trainer influences the dog's behavior and changes it in the desired direction. The behavior of a trained dog is controlled by the trainer, who encourages the dog with his signals (commands and gestures) to perform certain actions (landing, returning to his place, guarding a thing, protecting a post, searching for a person on a scent).
Service dog breeding is widely developed in our country; in many cities there are service dog breeding clubs that unite a large number of dog lovers service breeds. They do a great job of training dog handlers, training and breeding dogs.
Herding dogs guard livestock, drive up stragglers and search for lost animals, and protect herds from predators. Guard dogs are indispensable for protecting various objects and structures. In the northern territories, sled dog teams are reliable and often the only transport. Search and guard dogs help detect and apprehend various criminals. But a dog can be used to perform a particular role only after appropriate training (2).
Therefore, the purpose of the work is to study the methods and methods of general disciplinary dog training.
1. Equipment of a place for practicing techniques, requirements for organizing classes
1.1 Dog training. Basic provisions
The dog training method is a scientifically based system for developing in dogs a set of skills necessary for their use in a specific job. Training techniques are ways of influencing a dog with appropriate stimuli to develop a specific conditioned reflex.
The entire process of training service dogs consists of three main stages: preparatory, main training course and special training dogs.
Preparatory training has the goal of developing a complex of initial conditioned reflexes in young dogs. This is the basis for developing job skills.
The main training course is central to the training of specialists and service dogs and is carried out, as a rule, in departmental training units. The duration of the course depends both on the preliminary preparedness of the dogs and on the quantity and quality of skills, necessary for a dog intended for special service.
After completing the main training course, dogs are trained in units in order to improve previously developed conditioned reflexes, taking into account the specific work environment.
All training techniques are divided into general and special.
They are called general disciplinary, or general training techniques, because in the process of their development they develop conditioned reflexes, disciplining the dog, making it obedient. Most general disciplinary skills are the basis for the development of special skills in all types of service dogs.
Special Moves designed to prepare dogs to perform certain tasks official tasks. The number and types of special techniques are determined by the purpose of the dog (2).
1.2 Equipment for practicing training techniques
When training dogs, it is necessary to have a set of special equipment for individual and group use. By individual means are: regular and strict (metal) collars, short (1--1.5 m) and long (10--12 m) leashes, muzzle, chain. Besides:
A strict collar (parfors) is used to train dogs that are not sufficiently sensitive to painful stimuli of normal strength. It is a long collar with spikes on the inside.
Retrieval objects are used to teach a dog to fetch objects. Most often they are wooden, in the shape of a dumbbell. The length of such a carrying object is 20-25 cm, the diameter at the ends is 5-6 cm, in the middle 3-4 cm.
A bag for treats made of durable fabric measuring 15x15 cm. The flap of the bag must be securely fastened.
The whip is used to apply gentle blows to dogs if necessary. Made from leather or leatherette. The pin is used for tying dogs. Made of metal.
Group equipment is a training suit (jacket and trousers), a training coat, special sleeves, a civilian coat, a leather whip (can be replaced with rods), a starting pistol, containers with a set of various items for sampling things, and inductors. The latter are used to train a dog not to take food from the ground. In addition, when accustoming a dog to strong sound and light stimuli, a starting pistol or training rifle, motorcycle or car headlights, explosive packages, flares, etc. are used.
In addition, training departments equip areas with various structures, barriers, stairs, etc. (3).
1.3 Basic requirements for classes
During the work, the trainer must strictly adhere to the following basic rules:
1. When starting training, carefully study the behavior of the dog, accustom the dog to yourself, and only after that start working.
2. It is necessary to think through the training plan for each lesson, study the methodology for developing the intended conditioned reflexes from the textbook, and get advice from experienced trainers. It is recommended to keep a brief record of your dog's training process.
3. Strictly observe the basic rule for developing a conditioned reflex: apply the conditioned stimulus (command, gesture) slightly earlier than the unconditioned one or, in extreme cases, simultaneously.
4. Do not change the commands, but give them the appropriate intonation and carefully monitor the correctness and clarity of the commands and gestures.
5. Do not be nervous, do not allow rudeness and excessive affection. Be demanding and persistent, remembering to reward every correct action of the dog.
6. Carry out training according to the principle: from easy to difficult, from simple to complex.
7. Do not tire the dog with the monotony of exercises, diversify the activities, trying to keep the dog interested in performing various actions.
8. Closely monitor the dog’s physical condition.
9. It is necessary to skillfully use short and long leashes as a means of disciplining the dog, allowing you to clearly control its behavior. Leashes are used, as a rule, to reinforce a command or gesture in the form of jerking, restraining and light pulling. You cannot punish your dog with a leash.
10. It is recommended to exercise your dog 2-3 times a day, preferably before feeding, but not earlier than 2-3 hours after feeding. When determining the number of classes and the duration of each of them, one must take into account the number and types of exercises performed, their complexity, nervous and physical stress on the dog’s body and its performance (2).
2. Methods and methods of training dogs using general disciplinary cycle techniques
2.1 Training techniques
Dog training should always begin with general techniques. Thanks to these techniques, dogs develop skills that control their behavior, establish the necessary contact with the trainer, and lay the foundation for special training.
Each training technique is divided into the following stages:
The first stage is the development of an initial action on a certain conditioned stimulus (sound command, gesture, etc.). At this stage, the trainer must solve two problems: induce the dog to perform the desired action and develop an initial conditioned connection to the command. At this stage, the dog “does not yet know how” to clearly distinguish between commands and may exhibit erroneous actions. The trainer must inhibit the dog’s erroneous actions and reward only those performed correctly with treats. At this stage, the trainer cannot yet overcome the influence of distracting stimuli. Therefore, classes should be conducted in an environment with the least amount of distracting stimuli.
The second stage is the complication of the initially developed skill. For example, in the process of a dog approaching a trainer on the command “Come to me,” such a complication is securing a certain position of the dog at the trainer’s left leg, etc. It should be ensured that the dog clearly distinguishes (differentiates) the commands used.
The third stage is consolidation of the skill being practiced in various conditions environment.
2.2 Establishing the correct relationship between the trainer and the dog
In order to begin training, the trainer must first establish contact with the dog. This is achieved by developing in the dog such conditioned reflexes that ensure “trust”, and subsequently “attachment” to its trainer.
In the process of accustoming a dog to a trainer, it develops conditioned reflexes to his voice, appearance and inherent smell. As a result of this, the dog begins to gradually distinguish its trainer from other people. When accustoming a dog to a trainer, the main unconditioned stimulus is food. Great importance also has dog walking and regular care(cleaning, bathing).
When accustoming your dog to yourself, you should strictly prohibit strangers from giving it food or treats.
When establishing the correct relationship between the trainer and the dog, the following mistakes are most possible: 1) excessively rough, uncontrolled treatment of the dog, causing a defensive reaction and making it difficult to train the dog; 2) unnecessarily affectionate address, frequent and inappropriate play, etc., which takes the dog out of “subordination” to the trainer; 3) timid, fearful and indecisive handling of the dog, causing distrust and wariness in it.
2.3 Accustoming to a name, collar and leash
The nickname helps control the dog’s behavior in all cases when the trainer needs to attract its “attention”. When training, a nickname should precede any command only in cases where the dog is distracted from the trainer or when it is necessary to increase its attention.
It is best to start teaching your dog a name during feeding. Holding a bowl of food in his hands, the trainer should approach the dog and pronounce the animal’s name two or three times in a gentle intonation. After this, he gives the dog food and repeats the name again two or three times. In addition to food, you can use a “treat”.
The main possible mistakes of the trainer during the period of accustoming the dog to a nickname are: 1) the name of the nickname is too harsh and loud, which can cause, especially in a young dog, the manifestation of “timidity” and “fear”; 2) abuse of a nickname without backing it up with a treat. If the name is said too often before other commands, the dog may develop an unwanted connection and will begin to follow commands only after the name.
Collar and leash training is best combined with walking. The trainer, calling the dog's name, puts a collar on it and distracts it with games and treats. After 3--5 minutes. (especially if the dog begins to show anxiety) the collar should be removed. As soon as the dog calms down, it is put on again. This exercise is repeated two to three times.
When the dog gets used to the collar, it should be accustomed to a leash. After distracting the dog with play and treats, the trainer attaches a leash to the collar and again distracts the dog with play without restricting its movements.
Then you should grab the end of the leash and start walking with the dog, letting it go freely. Once the dog gets used to walking on a leash, it should be lightly tightened and the dog's pace of movement should be limited. After walking 30-40 m in this way, you should give a treat. It is recommended to repeat this exercise two to three times.
The main possible mistakes when developing this technique include: 1) using the command “Near” and jerking from the very beginning of teaching the dog to a leash. Such actions increase the “fear” of the leash and cause “mistrust” in the trainer; 2) using a leash instead of a whip, causing fear of the trainer holding the leash; 3) putting on the collar too loosely or too tightly.
2.4 The dog’s approach to the trainer
On the command “Come to me” or a gesture (a sharp lowering of the right hand on the thigh, raised to the side to shoulder level), the dog must quickly run up to the trainer, walk around to the right and sit at his left leg.
The trainer takes the dog on a short leash to the training area, stops, gives the dog the command “Walk” and gives it the opportunity to move away from him the entire length of the leash. At the same time, he takes the end of the leash in left hand, and holds a treat in his right hand. After a short delay, he attracts the dog’s attention with his name, pronounces the command “Come to me” and, showing a treat in the palm of his right hand, encourages the dog to come to him. The dog's approach is rewarded with a treat. Once the dog begins to quickly approach the handler, the name should be used only in case of distraction; further exercises should be carried out on a long leash. If the dog approaches sluggishly and slowly, you need to quickly run a few steps back, while repeating the command “Come to me.”
As soon as the dog begins to come to the command “Come to me,” it should be trained to walk around the trainer to the right and sit at the left leg. To do this, the trainer takes a treat in his right hand, shows it to the dog, moves his hand behind his back and quickly transfers the treat to his left hand, attracting the dog to his left thigh. After the dog begins to quickly walk around the trainer and stop at his left leg, he should be taught to sit. To do this, before giving the dog a treat, the trainer, using the “Sit” command, makes it sit and only after that gives the treat. Incorrect fit must be corrected immediately.
You can teach a dog to approach using a gesture after a clear conditioned reflex has been developed to the command “Come to me” and it will approach the trainer at the first sound command.
After the dog has learned to clearly and reliably approach the trainer with minor distractions, the conditions of the lesson should be made more difficult. In cases where the dog, distracted by some extraneous stimulus, does not execute the “Come to me” command, you can use a jerk with the leash, but the repeated “Come to me” command or gesture must be given after a short delay (1.5-2 sec .). It is also recommended to use a threatening intonation.
To properly consolidate the dog's approach skill, it is necessary to train it in different conditions and from different positions.
Most frequent mistakes when working on this technique are: 1) excessively frequent use of the dog’s name before the “Come to me” command, as a result of which the dog develops an unwanted connection; 2) long-term simultaneous use of a gesture and a command, which develops a conditioned reflex in the dog to a complex stimulus. In this case, the dog will not perform the command or gesture separately; 3) incorrect position on the trainer’s left leg; 4) abuse of jerks when calling; 5) giving a treat with the right hand, as a result of which the dog will walk forward, trying to stop to the right of the trainer.
2.5 Boarding the dog
At the command “Sit” or the trainer’s gesture (bending the elbow of the right arm, raised vertically with the palm facing outward), the dog must sit down and not change this position until the next command or gesture.
The dog, located at the left leg, must be held by the leash near the collar (at a distance of 15-20 cm) so that the dog cannot jump. The trainer takes the treat in his right hand and slowly raises it above the dog’s head, while saying the command “Sit”. The hand in which the treat is located must be raised higher and slightly back, towards the withers. The sight and smell of the treat excites the dog, but the dog cannot jump up to get the treat. She watches him intently, raises her head higher and higher and finally sits down. As soon as the dog sits down, the trainer repeats the command “Sit” again and rewards it with a treat.
There is another method: having given the command “Sit” in a commanding intonation, the trainer pulls the leash up and slightly back, as if “settling down” the dog, and with his left hand presses its croup vertically to the ground. As soon as the dog sits down, the trainer, holding its croup with his left hand, repeats the command “Sit”, and gives a treat with his right hand.
When the dog tries to stand up, the trainer repeats the command “Sit” again in a threatening intonation, accompanied by a sharper jerk of the leash and a stronger pressure on the croup. As soon as the dog begins to follow the “Sit” command, you should ensure that you remain in this position. To do this, it is recommended to reward the dog with a treat not immediately after boarding, but after 1-2 minutes. When the dog tries to change position, the command “Sit” is given in a threatening intonation and, if necessary, force is applied by jerking the leash and pressing the hand. The shutter speed should be gradually increased (up to 5 minutes); in this case, the dog must remain in place even when the trainer moves away from it. He must first warn his departure from the dog with the command “Sit”. A well-performed action must be reinforced with encouragement.
Accustoming to a gesture as a conditioned stimulus is carried out on the basis of the “Sit” command. Moving away from standing dog length of a short leash, the trainer, before sitting the dog, makes a gesture, which is first accompanied by the command “Sit”.
Subsequently, the command is increasingly delayed, and then applied only if the dog does not sit according to the gesture.
To complicate this technique, you should force the dog to sit down from various provisions(standing in place, laying down, when stopping, while moving).
2.6 Movement next to the trainer
Moving next to the trainer teaches the dog to stay near the trainer at different rates of movement, and when stopping, to sit down independently.
On the command “Near” or a gesture (lightly patting his thigh with his left hand), the dog must move next to the trainer, not lagging behind him and not running forward more than half of his body.
Having placed the dog at the left leg so that its chest is at the level of his left knee, the trainer begins to move forward. At the same time, he takes the leash with his left hand (20-30 cm from the collar) so that it slides freely in his hand, the end of the leash is rolled into several loops that fit tightly together (accordion), and firmly clamped in his right hand. When the dog tries to run forward or deviate to the side, the trainer pronounces the command “Near” in a commanding intonation and jerks the leash with his right hand.
If the dog lags behind, the trainer, pronouncing the command “Nearby,” speeds up the movement and, with light jerks of the leash, straightens the dog. If the dog is afraid to follow the trainer, you need to encourage him to move towards a treat. To do this, the trainer places a treat on the palm of his right hand. After walking a few steps, you need to reinforce the correct movement of the dog at the leg.
After making sure that the dog clearly follows the “Next” command while moving in a straight line, you should introduce turns at different angles and change the pace of movement. Before turning, you should always warn the dog with the command “Near”.
When turning right, the command “Nearby” is accompanied by a jerk of the leash in the direction of the turn; when turning left, the trainer, after the command “Nearby”, slightly pulls the dog back with a jerk of the leash; when turning around, gives the command “Nearby” and makes a turn through right shoulder.
A further complication in practicing this skill is to teach the dog to make the gesture, and then to move without a leash. To teach your dog to move without a leash, you must first carry out the exercise with the leash lowered to the ground. Subsequently, the leash is removed and the trainer controls the dog’s movement using a gesture and command.
The final consolidation of the dog’s movement skill at the trainer’s foot should be done where there are various distracting stimuli.
The main possible mistakes when developing this technique are: 1) violation of the basic principle of developing a conditioned reflex to a command - using a “leash jerk” before the command; 2) abuse of excessively frequent and strong jerks; 3) giving a command in one intonation; 4) long-term use of a tight leash; 5) lack of periodic reinforcement of the team after the skill has been sufficiently consolidated.
2.7 Transition to free position
This technique should accustom the dog to the “Walk” command or gesture (moving the right hand forward while simultaneously tilting the body and putting it forward right leg) move away from the trainer and take a free position. This technique should be practiced simultaneously with the “dog approaching the trainer” and “moving next to the trainer” techniques.
The dog is near the trainer, he gives the command “Walk”. If the dog does not move away, you should run with it a few steps, while repeating the command “Walk” with a gentle intonation. As soon as the dog moves away from the trainer's leg, you need to slow down and fall behind. After allowing the dog to walk for 3-5 minutes, they call it to you and repeat this exercise again.
The main mistakes when working on this technique are: 1) sluggish movements of the trainer when giving the command; 2) overindulgence playing while walking, causing the establishment of an unwanted connection - after the command “Walk”, immediately proceed to the game; 3) walking on a leash, standing still.
2.8 Laying down the dog
At the command “Lie down” or the trainer’s gesture (quick lowering of the right hand, extended forward at shoulder level, palm down), the dog must lie down and, remaining in place, not change this position until the next command.
The initial training of the dog to lay down is done from the sitting position. Having sat the dog at the left leg and holding the leash in his left hand near the collar so that the dog cannot stand up and move forward, the trainer takes a treat in his right hand. As soon as the dog reaches for the treat, the trainer says the command “Lie down” and gradually lowers the hand with the treat down. Trying to get a treat, the dog lies down.
To accustom the dog to endurance, after laying it down on command, with your left hand placed on the withers, lightly press the dog to the ground, and give the treat not immediately, but after 3-5 seconds, gradually lengthening this time more and more.
Another method can be used: the trainer, pronouncing the command “Lie down,” presses on the dog’s withers with his left hand, and with his right hand clasps the wrists of his front legs and pulls them forward. This causes the dog to lie down. After this, holding the dog by the withers, he repeats the command “Lie down” and encourages the dog.
Further complications are introduced after the dog begins to lay down on command for up to two minutes. It is necessary to achieve endurance in the laying position when moving away from it by the length of a short leash. If the dog tries to change position after the trainer leaves, he again repeats the command “Lie down” in a threatening intonation, using a jerk with the leash if necessary.
In the future, having put the dog down on command, you should move away from it in different directions, walk around the dog, stop behind it, etc.
If the dog clearly and reliably executes the command “Lie down” at a distance of a short leash, you should accustom it to laying down according to the gesture. In addition, it is recommended to force the dog to lie down from various positions (standing still, sitting, when stopping movement, etc.).
The main possible mistakes when developing this technique are: 1) lack of control over the correct installation; 2) an accelerated transition to training on a long leash without strengthening endurance when working on a short leash.
2.9 Standing in place
At the command “Stand” or a gesture (the right half-bent arm is raised with the palm up, slightly below the trainer’s shoulder) from the trainer, the dog must stand up from any position and, remaining in place, not change this position until the next command-gesture.
The initial conditioned reflex to the “Stop” command is best developed during daily brushing. When the animal tries to change position, the trainer pronounces the command “Stand” and, with the palm of his left hand placed under the dog’s stomach, forces him to stand.
In the future, this skill should be practiced from a sitting position. Having sat the dog at his left leg, the trainer gives the command “Stand” and, bending down towards him, picks him up under the stomach with his left hand, forcing him to stand. Then, holding the dog in this position for several seconds, he again repeats the command “Stay” and rewards the dog.
Moving away from the standing dog, the trainer carefully watches it. When the dog tries to leave the place, the command “Stay” is given in a threatening intonation and the trainer quickly approaches the dog and encourages it. When practicing self-control in a stand position at a distance of a long leash, and later without a leash, you should approach the dog yourself more often and call it to you less often. The holding time can only be extended gradually.
The final consolidation of this skill is carried out with the help of exercises, during which the “standing” position is practiced in combination with landing and laying techniques. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the dog clearly differentiates the commands “Stand”, “Sit” and “Lie down”, as well as the corresponding gestures.
The main mistakes that are possible when working on this technique are: 1) excessive hand pressure on the dog’s stomach or a blow to the stomach, causing fear of the trainer’s hand; 2) a strong jerk with the leash, forcing the dog not only to get up, but also to move away and making it difficult to practice self-control; 3) frequent calling of the dog from the “stand” position, leading to poor endurance.
2.10 Return to place
On the command “Place” and a guiding gesture (stretching the right arm forward in the direction of the place where the dog should go), the dog must quickly return to the place indicated by some object, lie down near it and maintain this position until the next command.
Having placed in a certain place an object that is well known to the dog (a glove, or a bedding on which the dog usually rests), the trainer leads it to the placed object and, giving commands (“Place”, “Lie down”), encourages it to lie down near the object , reinforcing the animal’s actions with a treat. Then he moves a short distance (3-5 m) and calls the dog. After briefly holding the dog at the leg, the trainer takes a treat in his right hand. Subsequently, after repeating the “Place” command several times and attracting the dog with a treat, he takes it to its place, puts it down and rewards it. After several exercises, the trainer, giving the command “Place,” tries to lag behind the dog, forcing it to return to its place on command. Right Action dogs are encouraged. The distance to the sending point should be gradually increased to 15 m or more.
In subsequent classes to practice this skill, you should alternate sending the dog to a place with calling, repeating this no more than three to four times during one lesson. Over time, classes become more complicated - the time spent in place increases, first in the presence of the trainer, and then in his absence. Exposure in the absence of a trainer is practiced as follows. Having laid the dog near the object, the trainer moves behind the cover. When she tries to break her restraint, the command “Place” is given in a threatening intonation.
The main mistakes when working on this technique are: 1) incorrect and far placement of the dog from the object; 2) reinforcement with a treat for each call of the dog from its place, leading to the dog sluggishly moving away from the trainer and very slowly returning to its place; 3) returning the animal to the same place, as a result of which the dog does not react to the location of the object; 4) the use of a retrieving object as an object to mark a place, leading to the dog trying to take and bring the object.
2.11 Handing over a thrown object
On the command “Apport” or a gesture (gesture of the right hand in the direction of the object), the dog must quickly bring the thrown object and sit near the trainer’s left leg, without throwing the object until the command “Give”.
You should start teaching your dog how to present an object during puppyhood, during play. By waving the retrieving object in front of the puppy's face, the trainer seems to involve him in the game. At the same time, he pronounces the command “Apport”. As soon as the puppy grabs the object, you need to lightly pull it towards you; this will force the puppy to hold the apport tightly. After making sure that the puppy is holding the object tightly enough, you need to let go of the object and, after a short wait, give the command “Give” and take it from the puppy.
In order for the puppy to easily give up the object, you should, saying the command “Give”, offer him a treat. Seeing the treat in the hands of the trainer, the puppy immediately gives the item back. Gradually you need to increase exposure - force the puppy to hold the object in its mouth longer; It is also recommended to allow the puppy to hold the fetch while moving away from the trainer, when moving next to him and when approaching.
You should also train your puppy to pick up objects from the ground. To do this, the trainer throws him to the ground, pronouncing the command “Apport”. The treat should be given only after taking the object from the puppy’s mouth on the command “Give”.
An adult dog can be trained to retrieve a thrown object in two ways. The first of these is similar to the way a puppy is trained. By moving an object in front of the dog, the trainer encourages the dog to grab the object. At the same time the command “Apport” is pronounced. After a short wait, on the command “Give”, the trainer takes the object from the dog and rewards it. In the future, you should force the dog to pick up an object from the ground.
The second method of training a dog is based on the fact that the trainer forcibly opens the dog’s mouth and inserts an object, holding the lower jaw with his hand. At the same time, he gives the “Apport” command, repeating it two or three times and rewarding the dog with the exclamation “Good.” After 5-10 seconds. he says the command “Give” and takes the object from the dog, rewarding it with a treat.
Having achieved that the dog grabs an object on the command “Apport” from the hands of the trainer or from the ground, you need to complicate the training. First of all, it is recommended to teach the dog to bring an object from different distances. Then you should not take the object brought from the dog, but force it to bring it, walking around the trainer and sitting at the left leg. As soon as the dog begins to quickly and reliably bring an object on command, you need to practice holding it in the landing position before sending for the object.
The main mistakes when practicing retrieving: 1) giving the dog the opportunity to play with the object being brought; 2) a hasty transition to learning to serve a thing from a distance; 3) the presence of a treat in the hands of the trainer when presenting an object, leading to the dog prematurely throwing the object out of its mouth.
2.12 Stopping unwanted activities
This technique develops in the dog a persistent conditioned reflex to stop or prevent actions that are undesirable for the trainer upon his command “Fu”, used in a threatening intonation.
Use the "Fu" command only when necessary. To practice this skill, you should choose a place where there are distracting stimuli. Having arrived at the training site, the trainer does not let the dog off the leash and, having given the command “Walk”, moves freely with the dog, gradually approaching extraneous distracting stimuli. As soon as a dog, attracted by any stimulus, tries to perform an unwanted action, the trainer gives the command “Fu”, accompanied by a strong tug on the leash. This stops the unwanted behavior of the dog. After a short delay, the trainer again gives the command “Walk” and gives the dog the opportunity to perform an undesirable action, preventing its execution with the prohibiting command “Fu”. Such exercises can be repeated in one lesson no more than three to four times.
As soon as the dog has established a conditioned reflex to the “Fu” command, it is recommended to move on to more complexity. this technique. To do this, classes are transferred to places characterized by the presence of a large number of different distracting stimuli. The dog is first on a long leash, and then without a leash.
Main mistakes: 1) excessively frequent reinforcement of the “Fu” command with strong painful stimuli; 2) frequent use of the “Fu” command, weakening the force of this command on the dog; 3) inappropriate use of the “Fu” command instead of any basic command.
2.13 Overcoming obstacles
The initial training of a dog to overcome obstacles is carried out on specially adapted equipment (barrier, boom, ladder, ditch). To overcome obstacles that require jumping, use the “Barrier” command; to overcome obstacles by climbing or crossing - the “Forward” command.
When teaching your dog to overcome obstacles, you must adhere to the following rules:
1) start with the easiest exercises;
2) do not conduct classes immediately after feeding the dogs;
3) increase the complexity of the exercises gradually, taking into account physical condition dogs.
Training a dog to overcome a barrier, boom and stairs is carried out simultaneously in different sequences.
For initial training, a barrier with a height of 30 cm to 1 m is used. Holding the dog on a leash, the trainer quickly approaches or runs with it to the barrier and, pronouncing the command “Barrier” in front of the obstacle, jumps over it, dragging the dog along with him. After the jump, the dog is rewarded with a treat, stroking and the exclamation “Good”. This is repeated three or four times.
In subsequent classes, the trainer runs up to the barrier with the dog and encourages it to jump with the command “Barrier,” but does not jump himself. Stopping in front of an obstacle, he gives the dog the opportunity to make a jump. At the moment the dog jumps, the trainer quickly moves to the other side of the barrier and rewards the dog there.
Having achieved that the dog begins to jump over the barrier on only one command, you need to move on to complications: increasing the height of the barrier and teaching the dog to grab the top board with its front paws and, pulling itself up, jump over the barrier.
If necessary, the trainer supports the dog during the jump. After this, he quickly runs to the opposite side of the barrier and rewards the dog.
Accustoming to jumping over a ditch is done in the same way as described.
Main possible mistakes: 1) increasing the height of the barrier without taking into account physical capabilities dogs; 2) overusing the number of jumps, causing overexertion of the dog.
On the command “Forward”, the dog must cross the boom (log), moving ahead of the trainer at a distance of one meter. The trainer, holding the dog by his left leg, approaches the boom. Taking her by the leash near the collar and giving the command “Forward,” he encourages the dog to climb up the slope board to the boom.
After this, the trainer again gives the command “Forward” and by pulling the leash, as well as by moving next to the dog, encourages it to move along the boom. If the dog loses its balance, you need to support it with your left hand under its belly and encourage it.
When the dog tries to jump off the boom, the trainer gives the command “Forward” in a threatening intonation and jerks the leash to force it to continue moving.
After the dog begins to go through the boom with only one command “Forward”, the exercises become more complicated: the dog is taught to move without a leash, and a slow pace of transition through the boom is practiced while the trainer moves behind the dog.
The final consolidation of this skill is carried out through exercises in various conditions (the dog walking along a log or plank thrown over ditches). In this case, the dog, on the command “Forward” and the gesture, goes ahead of the trainer.
Main mistakes: 1) using strong jerks on the leash in order to force the dog to go boom; 2) insufficient control over the dog, as a result of which it repeatedly jumps off the boom.
At the command “Forward”, the dog must rise to the platform and, after waiting, go down the stairs when called by the trainer. To develop this skill in your dog, you should first use a staircase with wide steps. Holding the dog on a short leash, the trainer approaches the stairs and, giving the command “Forward,” climbs it with the dog, encouraging it.
As soon as the dog can freely climb up the regular stairs at the command “Forward”, the training should be transferred to a special training staircase.
During initial training, the dog should be kept on a short leash, which is then replaced by a long one. During the first lessons, the trainer must go up and down the stairs with the dog. Approaching a staircase with sloping, wide steps, he gives the command “Forward” and, holding the dog by the leash by the collar with his right hand, slowly climbs the stairs with it. Sometimes it is necessary to help the dog - move its paws from step to step. After a short delay, you can begin the descent. When training a dog to descend, the trainer should be slightly ahead of it. In the future, the dog can be allowed without a leash.
Main mistakes: 1) using a ladder with narrow steps with large gaps between them during initial training; 2) failure to prevent the dog from falling in a timely manner; 3) letting the dog onto the stairs without practicing the required endurance on the landing of the stairs; 4) letting the dog down the stairs with a dragging leash, making it difficult to move.
On the command “Forward” the dog must freely enter the water and swim in the indicated direction. When starting to develop this technique, first of all you need to teach your dog not to be afraid of water. Therefore, classes should begin on warm days.
While in the water and calling the dog to him, the trainer shows a treat with which he rewards him at the moment when he enters the water. If the dog refuses to go into the water, you need to pick it up, carry it into the water and place it near the shore. After this, you need to try to take the dog deeper. If, having found itself in a deep place, the dog, trying to stay on the water, begins to kick with its front paws, you should hold it under the stomach, giving the command “Forward”.
The main mistakes when working on this technique: 1) throwing the dog into the water, which causes a “fear of water”; 2) training to swim immediately in a deep place in fast-flowing water, sometimes leading to the death of the animal.
2.14 Indifference to found food
Developing a refusal to take treats or food from the hands of a stranger or food found on the ground is of great practical importance.
Initial exercises are carried out while the dog is feeding. Having seated or laid down the dog, the trainer places dishes with food in front of it. When the dog tries to approach the food, the trainer uses the “Fu” command, then again forces the dog to take its previous position. After holding the dog before food for 20-30 seconds. The trainer, on the command “Take”, allows her to take food. In subsequent exercises, the dog's time before eating is increased to 3-5 minutes.
Further elaboration of this technique comes down to the fact that the trainer places a treat on the ground and, when the dog tries to take it, gives the command “Fu”, accompanied by a strong jerk of the leash or a blow of the whip.
In subsequent classes, pieces of meat, bones, bread, etc. are scattered in advance by an assistant in certain places. Keeping the dog on a leash, the trainer approaches the places where the food has been scattered and begins to walk in different directions, carefully watching the dog. When the dog tries to take food from the ground, the command “Fu” is given in a threatening intonation, accompanied by a strong tug on the leash.
Further exercises are carried out with the participation of an assistant. The trainer holds the dog on a short leash or ties it to a pole, tree, fence, standing behind the dog. The assistant comes out from behind the shelter and gradually approaches the dog, affectionately calling it by name and offering a treat. If the dog makes an attempt to take the treat, the trainer gives the command “Fu”, accompanied by a jerk of the leash or a blow of the whip.
A complication of this technique is that the trainer, having tied the dog by a chain and putting a strict collar with a long leash on it, gradually moves away from the dog. The helper who comes up from behind the shelter “offers” the dog a treat.
More active actions on the part of assistants are also acceptable. In this case, the trainer leaves the dog. The assistant approaching the dog holds food in one hand, and in the other (behind his back) a flexible rod, a thick straw rope or a whip. If the dog tries to grab food, the helper gives it an unexpected blow along the body with a rod. Such a blow causes the dog to display a defensive reflex and inhibit the food reflex.
Main mistakes: 1) always involving the same assistant in classes and conducting training in the same place; 2) use of one type of food (1,2).
3. Test standards for the training program “General Dog Training Course”
Minimum acceptable age to pass the standard - 12 months.
The general training course tests the following skills:
1. Movement dogs near With trainer.
The trainer, at the judge’s command, makes turns on the spot (right, left, around). The dog should walk calmly next to the trainer, at his left leg (the dog's shoulder is at the level of the trainer's knee). When stopping, she must sit at the trainer’s left leg parallel to him (without the command “Sit!”).
The skill is considered failed if the dog deviates in any direction by more than 2 m (a gap appears between the trainer and the dog of more than 2 m).
2. Show bite at dogs And attitude To muzzle.
The trainer with the dog approaches the judge, stops, shows the dog’s bite, puts a muzzle on it, gives the command “Walk!”, and he begins to move in any direction, calls the dog, removes the muzzle (the muzzle can be of any type, except a loop one).
The dog should be indifferent to the muzzle, not show resistance when putting it on, and not resist when showing a bite.
Failure to perform the “bite demonstration” skill is considered to be the inability to examine the dog’s teeth. Failure to perform the “attitude to the muzzle” skill is: the inability to put a muzzle on the dog, throwing off the muzzle or continuous attempts to throw it off, despite the influence of the trainer.
3. Landing, styling, rack.
The trainer leaves the dog in place in the “sit” position, moves 15 m away from it and with commands (voice and gesture at the same time) forces the dog to take the required position. Each skill must be performed twice from different positions.
The dog must, at the first command, take the required position, not change it, and not move forward, remaining in place until the next command. If the dog changes position without the trainer's command, he must return it to the required position.
Advancement of the dog more than 5 m in all positions is considered failure to complete the skills of the complex.
Repeated commands caused by distraction and given to a dog that has turned away (an untimely command) are considered a trainer error. The dog is punished only for being distracted.
4. An approach To to the trainer.
On the first command, the dog must quickly run up to the trainer and sit at the left leg (walking around is not necessary). When the dog approaches, it is allowed to sit in front of the trainer, after which, on the command “Near”, it must sit at the left leg.
The skill is considered failed if the dog does not approach the trainer within 15 seconds. after the first command given.
When calling the dog from a free state (after the command “Walk!”) to the command “Come to me!” It is allowed to give a nickname to attract the dog's attention.
5. Return on place.
The trainer commands "Lie down!" puts the dog down, places a thing in front of it, gives the command “Place!” and moves forward 15 m from the dog.
As directed by the judge, after holding for up to 30 seconds. command with the voice “Come to me!” and calls the dog with a gesture, after holding for up to 15 seconds. command with the voice "Place!" and with a gesture sends the dog to its place.
The dog, on the first command, must quickly run up to the trainer, and then, also on the first command, return to its place and lie down within 1 m of the abandoned item.
The trainer, after holding for up to 30 seconds, approaches the dog and gives the command “Sit”; Until this moment, the dog should be in a lying position.
The skill is considered unfulfilled if the dog does not return to its place or places it further than 2 m from the abandoned item.
6. Innings subject.
The trainer shows the dog an object and gives the command “Sit!” and throws the object forward no closer than 10 m from himself. After holding, the trainer simultaneously commands “Fetch!” and gestures to send the dog after the object.
The dog must run up to the thrown object, take it, approach the trainer and sit with the object at his left leg (the dog can sit in front of the trainer). After holding on to the command “Give!” the dog must give the object into the hands of the trainer. In case of sitting in front of the trainer, the latter, after taking the object, gives the command “Next!”, after which the dog must immediately sit next to the trainer.
If the dog does not bring the object, throws it further than 1 m from the trainer, or does not give it back, the skill is considered not completed.
7. Termination unwanted actions.
This skill is tested (after prior agreement with the trainer) in one of the following ways:
· prohibiting the dog from taking food from the handler’s hands;
· prohibition to take any object.
In the first method, the trainer, having seated the dog next to him (the command “Sit!”), gives one piece of treat several times with his hand (on an open palm). According to the judge's instructions, when giving the next piece, the trainer gives the command “Fu!”
In the second method, the trainer sends the dog to retrieve the object he threw. Then, at the direction of the judge, he gives the command “Fu!”
The dog's first command is "Fu!" must quickly stop what she is doing. If the dog has taken a treat (object), then it must throw it out of its mouth upon the given command “Fu!”
If the dog continues the actions it has started after two prohibiting commands, it is considered a failure to complete the skill.
8. Overcoming obstacles.
The trainer, on the instructions of the judge, approaches the obstacle and sends the dog to the obstacle with a command with his voice and gesture.
It is not allowed to provide the dog with any mechanical assistance when overcoming obstacles. The dog must overcome the obstacle on the first command. If the dog fails to overcome the obstacle, two repeated attempts are allowed. The dog must overcome the track and field hurdle without touching it.
At the boom, the dog enters the ladder, quickly walks along the boom and goes down the ladder on the other side. The trainer walks behind the dog or next to it along the boom.
The dog goes up the stairs from one side and goes down the other without delay. The handler follows the dog (along the stairs) and continues to move with the dog as directed by the judge.
The complex is considered failed if one of the obstacles is not overcome, as well as if any obstacle is overcome with mechanical help from the trainer, or if the dog jumps into the opening between the platforms.
The dog's performance is assessed by the judge for each skill or complex in accordance with the table of penalty points (see Appendix 1). For incorrect and unclear actions, penalty points (4) are deducted from the highest score for a skill (complex).
Conclusion
Every dog must be well-mannered. It’s good for the owner who has already succeeded in studying the complex and multifaceted science called “dog training” and raised his pet smart and obedient. Now he enjoys life, listening to reviews full of admiration about his dog, and does not count the devoured shoes and other material damage.
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The practical use of dogs for guarding objects, searching for violators, transporting goods, herding and protecting herds and other purposes is possible only after appropriate training.
During the training, the trainer encourages the dog to perform actions that ensure its subsequent practical use. At the same time, it delays and stops all unwanted actions of the dog.
Training service dogs is complex and painstaking, very interesting creative work, and not easy fun.
The service dog training course consists of two sections - general and special. During the general training course (GTC), techniques are practiced that subordinate the dog to the trainer and serve as the basis for training in a special course. When practicing OKD techniques, the trainer gets the opportunity to study the individual characteristics of the dog, direct its behavior, and physically develop the dog. Most OKD techniques are subsequently auxiliary for special training.
Practicing some OKD techniques provides the formation of skills that are based on the state of arousal nervous system dogs (for example, approaching the trainer on command, free state on command, etc.). With the help of other techniques, skills are developed that are based on inhibition of the dog’s nervous system (for example, prohibition of unwanted actions on command, various exposures, etc.).
Most OKD techniques have the goal of establishing in the dog’s nervous system the necessary relationships between the processes of excitation and inhibition, balancing these processes with each other, which ultimately ensures the reliability and accuracy of the dog’s work. It is natural, therefore, that dog training always begins with practicing the techniques of the general course.
A special training course provides for the development of techniques that ensure the use of a dog in special work (guard, search, sled, etc.). Each of these techniques will be discussed in detail later.
Currently, DOSAAF service dog breeding clubs accept the following types of special service dogs: guard, protective guard, search, light load carrying, skier towing, sled.
The techniques of general and special dog training courses should be practiced in such a sequence that best ensures the achievement of the final goal of training. This sequence in practicing techniques and their arrangement according to a certain system is usually called a training technique.
The dog training method is based on a strict sequence of practicing techniques according to the principle, as well as on a certain relationship between techniques (practicing some techniques serves as the basis for practicing subsequent ones).
During classes in OKD and a special course, it is necessary to adhere to some basic provisions outlined below.
Classes should begin in easy conditions, gradually increasing the complexity of the influence of the environment.
In the first lessons, the main focus should be on establishing the correct relationship between the trainer and the dog. For this purpose, it is recommended to walk and play with her more.
Techniques must be practiced comprehensively, that is, several techniques must be practiced simultaneously and in parallel, strictly observing the established sequence. To facilitate this task, methodological plans are usually drawn up for OCD and special services.
A comprehensive method of practicing techniques significantly speeds up training and improves its quality, since its use makes training less tiring for the dog.
You cannot start practicing a new technique at the end of the lesson, when the dog’s nervous system is already tired. It is best to do this in the first half of the lesson, but not at the very beginning, when the dog is not yet sufficiently trained.
You should not overload your classes with simultaneous practice of many techniques. It is recommended to practice no more than three to four techniques in turn within one hour. You should also not allow the monotonous repetition of the same technique: this will quickly tire the dog.
It is necessary to constantly take into account the factors influencing the dog during training and skillfully use them.
Before starting classes in OKD or any special service, the trainer must firmly decide what he wants to achieve and in what ways he will achieve the goals. In other words, he needs to develop the entire methodological plan.
When starting to practice each technique, the trainer must clearly imagine all the elements and stages, approximately following diagram: purpose and practical need for admission; conditioned and unconditioned stimuli used in its training; method and technique for practicing the technique in stages; standard of practice. He must constantly strive to know his dog as best as possible, the characteristics of its behavior and, on this basis, select individual methods impact on her.
Success in training service dogs can only be achieved through systematic, thoughtful, creative work trainer.
General training course
The general training course for service dogs, currently adopted by DOSAAF, includes training following techniques:
a) establishing the correct relationship between the trainer and the dog;
b) teaching the dog a name;
c) accustoming the dog to a collar and free movement on a leash;
d) training the dog to move next to the trainer;
e) training the dog to accept a free state;
f) training the dog to approach the trainer;
g) teaching the dog to sit on command;
h) training the dog to stand in place on command; i) teaching the dog to lie down on command;
j) teaching the dog to stop unwanted actions;
k) training the dog to return to its place;
l) training the dog to give objects;
m) teaching the dog to move forward on command;
o) training a dog to jump;
o) training a dog to climb stairs;
p) accustoming the dog to gunshots, explosions and other strong sound stimuli;
c) teaching the dog not to take food from the hands of strangers and from the earth;
a) Establishing the correct relationship between the trainer and the dog.
Establishing the right relationship between the trainer and the dog develops a trusting attitude towards the trainer, which allows the latter to carry out training and perform all the work related to keeping and caring for the dog. Establishing the right relationship is not a separate training technique in the strict sense of this concept, but represents the sum of the actions of the trainer in all cases of his communication with the dog (feeding, cleaning, walks, classes, etc.). Without the correct relationship between the trainer and the dog, without the correct contact between them, it is impossible to begin and successfully conduct training.
Contact between the trainer and the dog is established from the very first meeting, and then develops and strengthens throughout the entire training period. In the first days of communication, the dog is especially attentive to all the actions of the trainer and sensitively perceives the most minor changes in his behavior. Therefore, during this period the trainer must behave especially vigilantly and must thoroughly think through each of his actions.
It is necessary to strive to be with the dog as much as possible (feeding, cleaning, walking). If a dog is raised by a trainer from puppyhood, then by the time of training the correct relationship between the trainer and the dog is already established and this makes the work much easier. It’s a different matter when you have to start training an adult unfamiliar dog. In this case, even before meeting the dog, the trainer must collect as much data as possible about it and, based on it, outline a rough plan for the first approach to the dog.
When you first approach a dog, you need to behave boldly, but carefully, and be prepared for any surprises. Typically, the first meeting of the trainer with the dog occurs at the moment when the dog is alone in some room or at the moment when the old owner hands the dog (on a leash) to the trainer. In the first case, upon entering the room where the dog is, the trainer can expect any surprises. For example, an angry dog can attack a trainer, while a cowardly one can run away and hide in a corner. But more often than not, the dog stands in a wary position and watches the trainer’s actions in disbelief. In such cases, the trainer should, having named the dog’s name, decisively approach the dog, quickly take it by the collar and calmly lead it out of the room, often repeating the dog’s name and caressing it with his free hand. Having then attached a leash to the collar, it is recommended to walk with the dog, occasionally calling its name, stimulating it with small runs, stroking it and giving it a treat. The treat should be given as shown in Fig. 25. During a walk, the trainer should allow the dog to sniff himself thoroughly. At the same time, you should not show timidity or make sudden movements. If the dog does not allow the trainer to approach him, he must patiently accustom him to himself, using feeding and additional feeding (treats), and take the dog for a walk at the first opportunity. Dealing with timid, cowardly dogs requires special caution on the part of the trainer. In these cases, rudeness, sudden movements, and nervousness are completely unacceptable. Such a dog can develop a trusting attitude towards the trainer only through affection, play, restraint and feeding with treats.
Rice. 25. Giving treats to the dog
A - correct; b, c - incorrect
If the first meeting between the trainer and the dog occurs when the old owner hands the dog on a leash, establishing initial contact between the trainer and the dog usually occurs as follows. The old owner takes the dog for a walk on an extended leash. Taking advantage of the dog's distractions during a walk, the trainer comes up from behind and, unnoticed by the dog, takes the leash from the old owner, who then quickly leaves (hides). Continuing the walk with the dog, the trainer, without restricting its movements, calls the dog’s name, and when approaching, gives it a treat. If the dog is vicious and can attack the trainer, then the old owner first puts a muzzle on the dog and in this form hands it over to the trainer. If the approach to the dog was correct, then the correct relationship between the trainer and the dog is established. The dog's distrust of the trainer is gradually replaced by gullibility and then turns into affection. When a strong connection is established between the trainer and the dog, you can begin training the dog.
In the process of establishing the correct relationship between handler and dog The following basic trainer mistakes are possible: :
1. Incorrect conduct of the first meeting with the dog due to the lack of necessary data about the characteristics of its behavior.
2. Indecisiveness in action.
3. Excessive harshness, rudeness, feigned determination, often manifested in cases where the trainer is trying to hide his fear of the dog.
4. Excessive softness, affection and undemandingness towards the dog.
b) Teaching a dog a name
The dog's name is the first, and subsequently the most frequently used command, which is used by the trainer not only during the training process, but also in all cases of his communication with the dog. As a rule, each dog is accustomed to a nickname during puppyhood (3–4 months). But sometimes you need to get used to a nickname adult dog. This is usually required when the dog is transferred to a new owner (the dog must get used to the peculiarities of the voice of a new person), as well as in cases where the dog’s name is unknown or they want to replace the old name with a new one.
As a result of accustoming a dog to a nickname, it develops a persistent skill: quickly and clearly pay attention to its trainer after he pronounces the nickname. Thus, the nickname acquires the conventional meaning of a signal for the dog. Any short, sonorous word with a clear ending (except for people’s names) is suitable as a nickname.
Teaching a dog a nickname is done as follows. Having prepared a treat or regular food in the feeder, the trainer approaches the dog, stops a few steps away from it, pronounces its name two or three times in a gentle intonation and at the same time extends his hand with the feeder to the dog. If the dog does not approach the feeder, the trainer should approach the dog himself, place the feeder in front of it and, in a gentle intonation, call its name again two or three times. While the dog is eating food, the trainer again pronounces its name several times in a gentle intonation. After repeating these actions, the dog develops the skill of clearly and quickly becoming alert when hearing its name. Once this skill is established, you should not give a treat at the time the name is pronounced. Instead, you need to reward your dog with exclamations and smoothing. In the future, it is recommended to do this only occasionally.
During training, the dog’s name should always be pronounced monotonously, clearly and in an orderly intonation. The dog's name cannot be changed or distorted by shortening it or giving it diminutive (affectionate) forms. You also cannot pronounce the nickname in a threatening intonation or turn it from a signal into a command for calling.
The main mistakes a trainer can make when teaching a dog a name :
1. Inconsistent and unclear pronunciation of the nickname.
2. Pronouncing a nickname in a threatening intonation.
4. Too frequent use of nicknames.
c) Accustoming the dog to a collar and free movement on a leash
By accustoming a dog to a collar and free movement on a leash, it develops an indifferent attitude towards the collar and leash being put on, which restricts its movement. Usually dogs are accustomed to this at the age of four to five months. But sometimes there is a need to develop these skills in an adult dog.
This technique is worked out as follows. Holding the collar, the trainer approaches the dog, calls its name, pets it and lets it sniff the collar. Then, during the game, he quietly puts a collar on the dog and tries to distract his attention (stimulates him by smoothing, playing, jogging and giving treats). After 3–5 minutes. he removes the dog's collar and rewards it by petting it and giving it a treat. This is done several times, gradually increasing the length of time the dog stays in the collar; if the dog shows anxiety, it is distracted by playing and giving treats. When accustoming your dog to a collar, you need to make sure that it is not too tight, but also not too loose. The collar is considered to be put on correctly if two fingers fit under it freely.
As soon as the dog gets used to being indifferent to the collar being put on, you can begin to accustom him to free movement on a leash. To do this, the trainer approaches the dog, calls its name, strokes it and, putting a collar on it, quietly attaches a leash to it. Then he takes the dog for a walk and encourages him to play and run. Walks usually have such a stimulating effect on the dog that he reacts poorly to the collar and leash. During a walk, you must avoid sudden jerks with the leash. If the dog tries to remove the collar or shows signs of leash fear, it is recommended to distract its attention by calling its name, giving treats, or other means. In the future, putting on a collar with a leash will no longer bother the dog, since this action will be a signal for the upcoming walk.
Subsequently, the trainer gradually limits the dog’s freedom of movement, gradually shortening the leash. Then he teaches the dog to be indifferent to the extended leash. To this end, each time he lags further and further behind the moving dog, while carefully ensuring that the leash does not get caught on any objects and cause the dog pain.
When practicing this technique, the trainer can make the following basic mistakes: :
1. Incorrectly tighten the collar (too tight or too loose).
2. Be rude when putting a collar on your dog.
3. Allow sudden jerks with the leash.
4. Move too quickly to move the dog on a shortened leash.
5. Use the leash as a whip.
d) Accustoming the dog to move next to the trainer
With the help of this technique, the dog develops a persistent skill of trouble-free movement next to the trainer on command and gesture.
It is necessary to accustom the dog to move next to the trainer in the process of various actions (while moving with the dog, when escorting a detainee, etc.). When practicing this technique, a command and gesture are used as a conditioned stimulus - lightly patting the thigh of the left leg with the palm of the left hand, and as an unconditioned stimulus - a jerk with a leash, stroking and a treat.
The technique is practiced after the dog is accustomed to the collar and free movement on a leash in the following order.
After walking the dog, the trainer takes the main stance with the dog (Fig. 26). To do this, he takes the dog on a short leash and places it on his left side so that the knee of his left leg touches the dog’s right shoulder blade. This position of the dog near the trainer is most convenient for controlling the dog and moving with it. With his left hand, the trainer takes the leash 20–30 cm from the collar so that it moves freely in a slightly clenched hand. The rest of the leash is assembled with an accordion into the fist of the right hand (the leash located between the left and right hands should sag a little - so it will not interfere with the movements of the trainer’s hand when moving).
Rice. 26. Basic stance of a trainer with a dog
Having achieved the correct position of the dog, the trainer strokes it and gives it a treat. Then he calls the dog’s name to attract its attention, and then, after a short pause, gives a command, jerks the leash forward and at the same time begins to move in a straight line. At first, as a rule, the dog will lag behind the trainer, or run ahead, or run to the side. In these cases, you should give a command in a commanding intonation and at the same time make a jerk with the leash: forward, if the dog is lagging behind; back if the dog runs forward; towards you if the dog runs to the side. As soon as the dog takes correct position at the trainer's leg, you need to continue moving and reward it.
When practicing this technique, you must ensure that the leash is always loosened and not tense; this will allow the dog to perform while moving away from the handler's leg. Each dog must be corrected immediately using a command and a jerk of the leash for this purpose. In the first lessons, such jerks should not be too strong; the command must be given in a calm voice in an orderly intonation; It is recommended to make movements only in a straight line, without sharp turns and at a constant pace.
Usually, already in the fourth to sixth lesson, most dogs develop a clear conditioned reflex to the command. To make sure of this, while moving, the trainer, noticing that the dog is lagging behind or running ahead, must give a command without accompanying it with a jerk of the leash. If the dog takes this command to the correct position at the trainer’s leg, then the initial conditioned reflex has already been formed.
The complication in practicing the skill is that the trainer moves with the dog, changing the pace of movement, making stops during movement and turns not only in place, but also during the movement. When changing the pace of movement, you must first give a command and then jerk the leash: forward if the pace of movement accelerates, and back if the pace slows down. When turning on the spot and during movement, a command is first given, then a jerk with the leash also follows. If the turn is made to the right, then the leash is jerked forward; if the turn is made to the left, then the jerk is made back - this seems to upset the dog. Turns in a circle with the dog are performed over the right shoulder and a jerk with the leash is therefore done - forward.
To further consolidate the skill, various distracting stimuli are introduced during training, and then they begin to practice the skill with a gesture that replaces the command. For this purpose, the trainer, holding the leash in his right hand, gives a gesture before starting the movement (pats the palm of his left hand on the thigh of his left leg) and a command, accompanying them with a jerk of the leash forward. Gradually, the command and jerk of the leash are used less and less and are replaced only by giving a gesture.
Skills are refined by further complicating the training environment and switching to working without a leash. To do this, you should first keep the dog on a very loose leash during training, and then lower it to the ground. If the dog reacts weakly to the command and gesture, then the trainer should either step on the leash with his foot while moving, or lift it and make a strong jerk, having previously given the command in a threatening intonation. After making sure that the dog clearly follows the command or gesture, the leash can be removed. If the command is carried out flawlessly and accurately, the dog should be rewarded with exclamations, smoothing, and giving treats.
In the process of further work with the dog, it is necessary to periodically reinforce the conditioned stimuli (command and gesture) with an unconditioned stimulus (a jerk of the leash), deliberately placing the dog in such conditions that it will do it. When practicing this technique, you can use a strict collar (parfors) only in exceptional cases, when jerking the leash does not have the desired effect on the dog. In this case, it is always necessary to take into account the individual characteristics of the animal.
Practicing the skill can be considered complete if the dog without a leash, at the first command or gesture of the trainer, quickly and clearly takes the correct position at his left leg and maintains it for a long time in place and in motion with any changes in the direction or pace of movement.
1. Incorrect use of the leash in a tight position, leading to the formation of an unwanted connection in the dog - constantly pulling forward.
2. Excessively sharp and strong jerks with the leash, the use of a strict collar (parforce) without taking into account the individual characteristics of the dog’s behavior, issuing too loud commands and frequently using them in a threatening intonation, which can lead to inhibition of the dog’s nervous processes.
3. Too frequent changes in direction and pace of movement at the beginning of practicing the technique, leading to dogs.
e) Teaching the dog to accept a free state
Teaching a dog to accept a free state on command or gesture develops in it the skill of quickly and trouble-free transition from any position to a free state. The formation of this skill allows the dog to distinguish between a free state and a working state, which requires constant tension and attention from it.
A free state is provided to the dog for rest and walking during breaks in training and in everyday work. During this period, the dog's tired nervous system restores its normal activity.
When practicing this technique, the conditioned stimuli are a command and a gesture - throwing the right hand in the direction of the desired movement of the dog with a simultaneous slight tilt of the body and putting the right leg forward (Fig. 27). The unconditioned stimulus is the dog’s natural desire for a free state. This technique is practiced simultaneously with the practice of techniques and.
Rice. 27. Gesture replacing the command “Walk”
The initial training of a dog to accept a free state on command is done as follows. Holding the dog by his left leg, the trainer attaches an extended leash to its collar, calls the dog's name and gives the command in a lively, energetic intonation. Right hand simultaneously with the command, he makes a gesture in the direction of the desired movement of the dog and at the same time, in order to excite the dog, makes a short jog (10–20 steps). If this is not enough, it is recommended to challenge the dog to play. When practicing the technique, all the trainer’s actions must be energetic, agile, cheerful, they must encourage the dog to energetic, lively movements, active game and jogging. After jogging, you need to give the dog the opportunity to walk freely at some distance from the trainer (at the distance of an extended leash). After 2–4 minutes. you should call the dog or approach it yourself, stroke it, accompanying the stroking with an exclamation, and give a treat. Then all steps must be repeated.
After a series of such repeated exercises, the dog will form an initial conditioned reflex to the command and gesture and will quickly and clearly move into a free state, which is usually called walking. The formation of a skill in a dog will happen faster if the trainer, when taking the dog out for a walk or exercise, each time energetically and vividly gives the command, and then gives the dog the opportunity to walk freely.
The initial training of the technique is carried out only on an extended leash. At this time, the dog is not yet sufficiently trained and there is no guarantee that it will not run away from the trainer or perform any unwanted action. To complicate the acquired skill, it is necessary to practice the technique in the presence of a large number of different stimuli and ensure that the dog assumes a free state from various positions (sitting, lying, etc.).
To consolidate the skill until it fails, it is necessary to practice the technique without a leash, from various positions, in any situation.
Typical trainer mistakes that are possible when practicing this technique:
1. No immediate prohibition if the dog moves a significant distance from the trainer or disappears from his field of vision, which leads to loss of contact with the dog.
2. Inattentive observation of the dog’s behavior while walking, leading to the formation of unwanted connections (searching for and eating garbage, attacking animals, birds, etc.).
3. Lack of energy, sluggish actions of the trainer, which do not sufficiently excite the dog, as a result, the process of developing the skill is lengthened, and the dog’s retreat on command becomes sluggish and insufficient in distance.
4. Excessive passion for playing with the dog, leading to the formation of unwanted connections and weakening of the dog.
5. Jerking with the leash and rude shouting at the moment the dog leaves, which reduces the activity of its movement and mobility during walking.
Skills- these are forms of dog behavior acquired in the process of life or training. The skills are diverse, different in meaning and represent the sequential manifestation of several reflexes: the skill of carrying objects manifests itself in the form of finding an object, taking it with the teeth and bringing it to the trainer, etc.
The necessary skills in a trained dog are developed using the following methods: imitative, taste-rewarding, contrasting and mechanical. They must be used carefully and skillfully, taking into account the type of higher nervous activity of the animal.
MIMITATIVE METHOD
is based on the use of the innate ability of one dog to imitate the actions of another, since by nature dogs are animals that live in a pack and obey in their behavior the leader, and at the age of up to a year - the mother bitch, who teaches the puppies caution, camouflage, active and passive defense. All innate instincts are complemented by life experience based on imitation and submission to force.
This method is most common when training herding and hunting dogs. Along with adult dogs, puppies take part in the work and learn the necessary actions from their older relatives. Using this method, it is easy to teach dogs to overcome obstacles, make a grab, detain a runaway, etc., but it is impossible to teach commands that prohibit an action.
TASTE ENHANCEMENT METHOD
With this method of training, the dog is encouraged to perform the action desired by the trainer by a food stimulus, and the giving of treats is used to reinforce the conditioned reflex to a command or gesture. Positive sides This method is the rapid formation in the dog of the majority of conditioned reflexes that require action, its greater interest in performing these actions, as well as maintaining and strengthening the contact between the trainer and the dog. The disadvantage of the method is that it does not ensure trouble-free execution of commands, especially in the presence of distracting stimuli. In addition, it is impossible to process commands that prohibit an action using this method. The taste reward method is the main one when training puppies and decorative dogs.
CONTRAST METHOD
apparently can be considered the main method of training dogs. Its essence consists in a certain combination of mechanical and incentive effects on the central nervous system of the animal in various types(treat, stroking). In this case, mechanical stimuli are used to encourage the dog to perform desired actions, and incentive stimuli are used to reinforce these actions. For example, when practicing the technique “Sit!” the corresponding command is given in a stern tone, the trainer presses his hand on the dog’s sacrum (mechanical impact), and after boarding he gives a treat and rewards with stroking, an approving “Good!”
The positive aspects of this training method include: quick and persistent reinforcement of conditioned reflexes to certain commands; the dog is interested (from a conditioned food reflex); maintaining and strengthening contact between the dog and the trainer; the ability to achieve trouble-free performance by the dog of practiced actions in difficult conditions (in the presence of distracting stimuli).
MECHANICAL METHOD
consists in the fact that a mechanical stimulus is used as an unconditional stimulus, causing the dog to strive to avoid mechanical influence. For example, the landing reflex is practiced by pressing the dog’s croup with your hand (a mechanical stimulus not only causes unconditioned reflex, but also reinforces the conditioned stimulus, i.e. a command or gesture). The positive aspects of this method are that all actions are firmly established in the dog, reliably and are performed without fail. The method is used when training adult dogs with a strong, balanced nervous system. With its frequent use in training, young dogs develop a depressed, inhibited state and distrust of the trainer. The dog begins to fear the trainer and follows his commands forcefully, without interest.
When using this method, prolonged and severe painful effects on the animal should not be allowed. One should take into account his individual characteristics, remembering that the dog’s depressed state, passivity and cowardice make it impossible to practice the necessary skills.
Each skill, after final practice, should represent a completely completed action. Skill development occurs in three stages:
FIRST STAGE
developing a skill is to evoke an initial reaction (and action) in the dog in response to a certain conditioned stimulus (sound command, gesture, etc.). It is characterized by the fact that the dog has weak differentiation of conditioned stimuli (it does not clearly distinguish commands and is confused in their execution). The trainer should reward with treats only the correct execution of the command. Classes should be carried out without extraneous irritants distracting the dog and on a short leash.
SECOND STAGE
consists of complicating the initially developed action of a conditioned reflex into a skill. In this case, other actions are added to the initial action (the main conditioned reflex), complicating the initial conditioned reflex. For example, sometimes approaching the trainer with the command “Come to me!” is supplemented by going around it from the right to the left leg and sitting down on its own. At this stage, you should not complicate the conditions in which the skill is practiced. This will ensure quick and easy production.
THIRD STAGE
consists of consolidating the complex action (skill) being practiced in difficult environmental conditions, i.e. in the presence of extraneous stimuli. This is necessary in order to achieve trouble-free manifestation of skills or bring them to automatism. When conducting classes, they change the place, time, conditions, use stronger measures of influence on the dog, use not only imitative, but also contrasting methods of training, and during training, mainly the mechanical method.
As a result of training, i.e., developing skills, the dog develops a certain dynamic stereotype of behavior. A dynamic stereotype is understood as the property of the animal’s cerebral cortex to generalize and connect individual conditioned reflexes, as well as conditioned stimuli, into a specific system. The manifestation of a dynamic stereotype lies in the dog’s ability to “program” its behavior (for example, when presenting an object to the trainer, the dog sits down and waits for him to take it).
The stronger the dynamic stereotypes, the more reliable the dog’s work. However, if the trainer acts incorrectly, the dog may develop a negative (unnecessary) stereotype. For example, if you give commands in the same sequence (“Stand!”, “Sit!”, “Lie down!”, etc.), while maintaining relatively equal intervals of time between their presentation, the dog will firmly master a certain sequence performing actions, will perform them in this sequence, no longer reacting to given commands. To avoid this, when training dogs, you should alternate between different commands and training times.
When developing skills in a dog, general and special training techniques are used. General techniques training makes it easier for the dog to obey the trainer, creates conditions for controlling its behavior by strengthening the connection (contact) between the trainer and the dog. Special training techniques lay down skills, the development of which ensures the use of the dog for certain purposes, for example, as a search dog, guard dog, shepherd dog, sled dog, hunting dog, etc.
The success of training depends to some extent on environmental conditions. Hot or cold weather makes work difficult, windy weather makes it easier or more difficult to control the dog’s behavior, etc. The most favorable air temperature for training is from -15 to +20 °C. Training in cold or hot weather improves the dog's performance. In cold weather, the dog should be protected with a blanket, in hot weather it should be given water more often and rest, if possible, in the shade. In damp, rainy weather, the dog's body must be covered with a blanket made of waterproof fabric or film.
When training, each dog requires an individual approach, i.e., taking into account the analysis of behavior, the state of its body, age, conditions of cultivation and education. The predominant behavioral reaction and the characteristics of the nervous system of puppies and young dogs up to 1.5 years are taken into account. Young animals need to be drawn into work gradually, following an exercise regime. If a food reaction predominates in a young dog, more food stimuli should be used. If there is a passive defensive reaction, mechanical stimuli must be used carefully. If the dog has a predominant active-defensive reaction, guarding exercises are carried out after training the inhibitory reflexes. When training dogs with an excitable type of nervous system, inhibitory skills should be developed carefully and gradually, since the tension of the inhibitory process can lead to neurosis. It should be taken into account that dogs of the active type (sanguine) are easily trained, while dogs of the inert type (phlegmatic) develop skills slowly. When organizing classes in groups, the instructor must draw up an individual schedule.
The manifestation of unwanted skills in dogs should be suppressed. For example, an undesirable skill develops when a dog tries to attack a domestic animal, bark at flying birds, chase them, etc. As a result, it becomes unfit for duty, and it can be very difficult to wean it from this. You should also not allow the dog to be set on passers-by or children, otherwise it will always show aggressiveness, attack strangers without the trainer’s command and become dangerous to others, which will make it impossible to keep it in apartment conditions.
Mistakes made during the training process make it difficult to develop skills and lead to the appearance of unwanted reflexes that reduce the performance and other qualities of dogs. For example, improper influence on a dog with a leash can lead to the emergence of a reflex of fear of the trainer.
The trainer may confuse the order of application of conditioned and unconditioned stimuli, for example, he will jerk the leash (unconditioned stimulus), and then give the command “Near!” (conditioned stimulus). This violation of one of the laws of the emergence of a conditioned reflex leads to a violation of the contact between the trainer and the dog. A dog may also experience adverse reaction on the situation and time, if training is always carried out in the same place and at the same time.
Often the owner is perplexed why the dog, while doing everything at home, does not work on the site. This phenomenon is explained by the fact that the reflex fades under the influence of strong extraneous stimuli, that is, the skill is not practiced to the point of automatism.
WHAT DO YOU NEED TO REMEMBER WHEN STARTING TRAINING A DOG?
- The first lessons should be aimed at establishing mutual understanding (contact) between the trainer and the dog.
- Techniques and exercises should be practiced from simple to complex. It is necessary to start classes in places with the least amount of extraneous irritants.
- A strict sequence in developing skills should be observed.
- Techniques must be practiced comprehensively, that is, several techniques simultaneously and in parallel, while the skills must be in different stages formation.
- It is better to start practicing a new technique in the first half of the lesson, but not at the very beginning, when the dog is not yet obedient enough, but not at the end, when it is tired.
- You need to study in different time morning and evening, always before feeding or 2-3 hours after it. You should not repeat the same technique more than 3-4 times - this tires the dog.
- Before starting classes, it is necessary to decide what the owner wants to achieve and how he will achieve his goal.
The issue of classification of types, methods, methods of training and the corresponding training techniques, in my opinion, has more academic than practical significance. Understanding the general context of training and the ability to freely improvise is much more important than the ability to correctly name the method that you are currently using, especially since the boundaries between methods, methods, and, perhaps, even between types of training are very arbitrary.
It is customary to distinguish between two types of training: conditioned reflex training (the prospects for its use in its pure form, as we have already seen, are very doubtful) and instrumental (also operant) training. In turn, instrumental training, the basic principles and stages of which we have already discussed in some detail, can be divided into two methods: the method of selecting behavior and the method of shaping behavior.
It should be understood that when using these methods to obtain fairly complex behavior, one should not count on being able to immediately select (form) this behavior as a whole. Skinner also suggested breaking the learning process into several stages.
Let's say that we need to teach a dog to give a paw. At the first stage, we will offer the dog a treat, clenched in a fist lowered to ground level. A dog, trying to get a treat, will consistently display various behavior patterns: barking, attempts to unclench its fist with its paw or muzzle, etc. At the moment when the dog touches the fist with its paw, you should unclench your fist and feed the dog a treat. In the second stage, the fist rises to the level of the dog's muzzle. In the third stage, the dog is presented with an empty fist, and the treat is in the other hand (and is given to the dog after it touches the empty fist with its paw). At the fourth (final) stage, the trainer ensures that the paw touches the outstretched palm.
At the same time, they move on to the next stage only when the behavioral act necessary at the previous stage has already been formed and consolidated.
Within the framework of the method of shaping behavior, it is possible, following the tradition of trainers-behaviorists, to identify 7 methods of training, each of which can find specific embodiment in countless training techniques.
The guidance method is that the trainer causes the movement he needs, asking the animal to follow a piece of food or hand. We often instinctively use this method - we pat our hand on the thigh, inviting the dog to come, or on the sofa when we want him to jump on it. When we pick up a piece of treat and invite the dog to follow it, we use the guidance method.
The pushing method is when the trainer, with the help of guiding (“pushing”) influences of the hands, leash, etc., which do not lead to pain or unpleasant sensations for the animal, achieves the reproduction of the desired action. This is how we act when we take a child’s hand in ours and help him draw a face or a circle.
The method of passive flexion is to give the animal the necessary pose. This method is used, for example, when teaching a dog to take a “show” pose. In operant training, this method is called “sculpting”, since the trainer, as it were, sculpts this or that pose.
Alternative behavior. (Perhaps it would be more correct to call it a “method of non-alternative behavior,” since the animal is not left with any alternative). The trainer (for example, with the help of props) creates conditions that allow the dog to commit only one possible movement. One of the old methods of teaching a dog to move “nearby” refers to this method, when the trainer moves, pressing the dog against the fence, or among the trees, trying to get the tree between him and the dog (the leash gets tangled). As a result, the dog learns to move tightly clinging to the trainer's leg.
Method of gaming behavior. (Especially effective for young, playful animals). To use this method, a game situation is created and a form of game is proposed, which represents the action desired by the trainer. In this case, the game itself is a reinforcer. As a matter of fact, we have already discussed the use of games in training in great detail, and we will continue to discuss them, since this is the main method used by trainers of scent detector dogs.
The method of imitation (imitation method) is advisable to apply to young individuals who are part of a temporary (training group) or permanent (several dogs of the same owner living together) community and occupy a subordinate position in it (due to age reasons).
The method of defensive behavior naturally breaks down into two: active-defensive (avoidance), when the desired behavior is achieved with the help of painful or unpleasant influences, avoiding which the animals perform the desired action. For example, painful jerks, blows, pressure, anticipation of pain (fear), which can cause forms of behavior needed by the trainer. In traditional “pre-Saaf” training, this method was used to practice the movement of the dog next to the trainer, sometimes sitting, laying, and standing.
I confess, I myself have used this method more than once. Fast, trouble-free and quite reliable. However, any trainer will confirm that the load on the psyche of a dog that is trained in this way is critically high. The dog becomes enslaved, afraid of doing something wrong. Again, traditionally, after completing a general training course in this style, it was traditional to restore the dog’s self-confidence with the help of a course in protective guard duty. For many dogs, this same self-confidence, however, never returned.
I can definitely say that a dog that is going to be trained in the “smell detector dog” course can be irrevocably damaged by using this method in the process of obedience training. There are three reasons for this. The first is that the dog “forgets how to learn.” The second is losing the taste for working with a dog handler. The third is a dog with an outstanding sense of smell; this is a very finely organized animal. Unfortunately, the subtlety of scent is usually inversely proportional to the strength of the animal’s nervous system. We have to choose a reasonable compromise. But in any case, you certainly shouldn’t consciously undermine the animal’s psyche.
The second type of method of defensive behavior is the method of aggressive-defensive behavior. It is based on the instinct of aggression, which we have already discussed in some detail, and which causes something that is intense in nature (and therefore causes positive emotions in the dog) aggressive behavior. Oddly enough, this method can also be useful when training scent detector dogs. The truth is in extreme cases: when you have to “fetch” dogs that by their nature are not intended for this service. However, we will return to this issue later.
“Dominant in this context means prevailing,” explained the boring voice.Snail on the slope. A. and B. Strugatsky.
- As for the formulation of the question itself, it is not stupid, but the only correct one if we are going to reason logically.
Learning is most successful when the motivation used turns into a dominant, i.e., an exaggerated need that ensures pronounced, sustainable behavior and cancels all side activities. A dominant can be created on the basis of almost any need, most often through appropriate deprivation, i.e. depriving the animal of the opportunity to satisfy a particular need for more or less long term(remember Lorenz's example with the pigeon). It should be taken into account that at the first stage of deprivation, its effectiveness is directly proportional to its duration, and then, with increasing duration, the importance of motivation not only does not grow, but also begins to decline. Thus, when creating a dominant, you should use the deprivation method very carefully, trying not to “overdo it.” However, deprivation in terms of play behavior immediately before the start of training on the scent detector dog course can be very effective, allowing training, even if not on the dominant, in exact value this word, then on a very strong gaming motivation, and, consequently, in a short time and with maximum results. In my practice, I had to observe a seemingly paradoxical phenomenon, when a dog living (but not raised) in an enclosure, deprived of the opportunity not only to constantly play, but also to communicate with the owner, achieves much greater success than a dog living in the owner’s apartment and "relaxing" to her heart's content, if not with the owner, then with his children.
When training a dog, breed does not matter. All dogs think the same, whether they're large or indoor, so don't be fooled by size or appearance.
There are no miracles in raising a dog. The results you and your dog achieve depend on your ability to apply theoretical knowledge gained from various sources into practice. It is best if you first carefully study them, and only then begin your work. Some exercises may seem very easy to you, but in reality this will not be entirely true, especially for beginners.
Perhaps your dog will not react exactly as described in the theoretical tips you have read, and this will complicate your task.
You learn to communicate and shape the dog's behavior. Remember that if your commands and rewards change from day to day, the dog simply will not understand what you want from it or will doubt your leadership and refuse to obey. You will need this knowledge when training on OKD and other specialized exercises with your dog.
It is very important that your entire family treats your dog the same way you do. No one should stand aside and allow the dog to disobey. Indeed, in this case, the dog will decide that he can become a leader in relation to some people - members of the “pack”, and this will complicate the task for those members of your family who act according to the rules. As a result of this, the duration of training will increase significantly. So if anyone in your family doesn't want to be involved in raising a pet, ask them not to give the dog any commands at all.
The scientific basis for dog training is considered to be Pavlov’s teaching on higher nervous activity. Animal behavior is determined by unconditioned and conditioned reflexes. The first are innate and are also called instincts. These include:
- food;
- defensive;
- sexual;
- indicative;
- parental.
The stimuli that contribute to their occurrence are signals from the environment and internal environment body. The first ones are perceived by the dog through the senses - these are sounds, smells, tastes, visible objects, tactile sensations. The second are internal receptors of the nervous system; they characterize changes in the balance within the body.
Conditioned reflexes are acquired by a dog throughout its life. They are the skills that an animal develops during its life and as a result of upbringing and training.
Ideally, when raising and training a puppy, there is a reasonable balance between rewards and punishments. The dog should not be afraid of you, but he should know that for good work he will receive a lot of attention, but for hack work he will be punished.
Repetition is the mother of learning
Start each day where you left off last time. You give a command, the dog follows it and receives encouragement. Both you and your dog are happy. And now punishments are only necessary occasionally, only if your dog wants to test you.
How to give commands
If the dog does not comply with the command and runs away, take it to the place where the command was given and apply physical punishment. Do not repeat the initial "Sit" or "Down" command, but signal "WAIT" before moving away.
When starting to teach a new command, we set ourselves the goal of getting the dog to follow this command three times in a row, without the need for punishment. This serves as proof that the dog is beginning to recognize your authority.
In this case, even if the dog does not hear you, it will have a few seconds to see this command. A hand command will help the dog correctly follow the instructions of its owner if the owner is too far away, or in cases where the surrounding noise on the street drowns out the owner’s voice.
When your dog gets old or loses his hearing, you will be glad that he understands the commands you show him.
- Before giving a command, do not wait for the dog to pay attention to you. Most dogs quickly learn the actions of their owners, and, perhaps, in the future they will try not to look in their direction, so as not to receive any command;
- When you order something to a dog, your gestures should be clear and your voice confident;
- If the dog does not obey immediately, punish it, even if it rushed to follow the command when it realized that it would be punished;
- Teach your dog that the time available to carry out a command is limited;
- If you make a mistake and give a different command than you intended, don’t laugh, don’t hesitate, don’t show your pet that you made a mistake. Keep your cool so that your dog still takes commands seriously;
- Include short play breaks in your training program. If your dog is stubborn, be sure to get him desired result and then arrange fun game as an incentive.
After the game break, the teaching method remains the same. In this case, the dog will no longer obey out of fear of punishment, but in order to please the owner and earn a reward. She must be given freedom, but she must earn it.
In the house, the dog should be kept on a short leash and wearing a training collar so that the dog can be punished at any time, if necessary. Later, when the dog begins to obey you unquestioningly, the collar and leash can be removed.
- Training should not last more than 45 minutes. The best option there will be a regime in which you alternate 10-minute classes and then take a 5-minute break, then study again;
- It is best to organize a change on a positive basis. That is, with the exercise performed correctly. Then the dog better understands the relationship: a completed element is a reward (a treat, praise from the owner and a play break);
- If your dog responds quickly to a command and does so three times in a row without punishment, stop training for a while;
- Avoid familiar commands that the dog can easily predict.
And then, in fact, the dog will wait for commands from you, and not try to guess them, or pointlessly perform the usual exercises.
It is up to the owner to choose methods and ways of training. But take into account why you got the dog, its breed, psychological characteristics necessary, if, of course, your goal is to give your four-legged friend a full-fledged happy life in your family.
